Gyesan-dong Cathedral

Two slender spires rise side by side over the Gyesan five-way junction in central Daegu. Gyesan-dong Cathedral, finished in 1902, was the first Western-style church in Gyeongsang Province and is one of Korea's few Gothic churches with twin towers on the facade. Its walls of alternating red and grey brick and its French stained glass have been part of the Daegu cityscape for more than a century.

History: rising from the ashes of a hanok church

The Daegu parish was founded around 1885–1886, with the French missionary Father Achille Paul Robert (Korean name Kim Bo-rok) as its first pastor. With persecution still a recent memory, he lived in hiding in the villages of Sinnamugol and Saebanggol, visiting believers at night disguised in mourning clothes. In 1897 he acquired the present site; at the wish of elderly parishioners, the church was built on the flat land in town rather than on a hill.

The first church, completed in 1899, was a cross-shaped hanok building in traditional Korean style, but it burned down soon after its dedication; sources differ on the year, 1900 or 1901. The congregation started again, this time in fire-resistant brick. As no one in Korea had built in the Western manner, bricklayers and carpenters were brought from China, and the stained glass and ironwork were ordered from France. The new church was completed in 1902 and consecrated by Bishop Mutel in 1903.

When the Vicariate of Daegu was created in 1911 it became the cathedral, and to accommodate the growing congregation the towers were raised to twice their height and transepts added, giving the building its present form in 1918. It was designated a national Historic Site in 1981.

What to see

• Twin towers: identical towers flank the facade. Their two bells are named "Augustino" and "Gelmana" after the baptismal names of their donors.
• Brickwork: red and grey brick on a granite base. The grey bricks are concentrated on the buttresses, doorways, window surrounds, interior columns and vault ribs, combining structure and ornament. Don't miss the rose windows in the main gable and the transept gables.
• Interior: a Latin-cross plan with rows of columns dividing nave and aisles, a classic Gothic layout, though the detailing is often said to be closer to Romanesque.
• Stained glass: windows of the Twelve Apostles imported from France light the interior.

Good to know

• Pope John Paul II visited the cathedral on 5 May 1984.
• Directly across the road stands Daegu First Church, the city's first Protestant church, which is why this area is called the starting point of Christianity in Daegu.
• It is one of the few churches in a Korean city centre that still ring real bells for the Angelus. If you are nearby around noon, listen out.

Nearby

• Gyeongsang-gamyeong Park: about 600 m northeast, with the Joseon governor's office Seonhwadang.
• Seomun Market: Daegu's best-known traditional market, about 700 m west.
• Cheongna Hill: the hill just west of the church, which was the other candidate when the site was chosen.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: free. This is a busy parish, so avoid the interior during Mass (Sundays 06:30, 08:30, 09:30, 11:00 and later; weekdays 06:30, 11:30, 19:30 and others).
• Photos: at night the floodlit towers stand out sharply against the city. Shoot from across the junction to fit both spires into the frame.
• Time needed: 20–30 minutes for the exterior and interior. Walk on to Gyeongsang-gamyeong Park, Cheongna Hill and Seomun Market for a half-day route.
• Information: 053-254-2300.