4est Arboretum, Haenam

Every June, hydrangeas roll along the ridges above Bongdong village in Hyeonsan-myeon, Haenam, at the 4est Arboretum. Its hydrangea garden, said to be the largest in Korea, holds about 8,000 shrubs of more than 400 varieties, and the Ttangkkeut Haenam Hydrangea Festival is held when they peak. Outside hydrangea season, the forest of some 1,400 plant species makes for a quiet walk.

A forest shaped by two botanists

The arboretum is the long-term project of Kim Geon-young and his wife, both trained botanists, and in 2019 it was registered as Haenam's first private arboretum. Paths and themed gardens run through roughly 200,000 m² of forest, and small gardens built around ideal worlds from Eastern and Western philosophy are tucked along the way. The couple also work to protect rare plants: the arboretum is a designated forest bioresource management institution of the Korea Forest Service and a conservation institution for rare and endemic plants under the Korea National Arboretum. It is a place to visit, but also one where plants are collected, propagated and studied.

Hydrangea season

A display of potted, early-forced hydrangeas opens in May, and by mid-June the whole hillside turns blue, purple and pink. Hydrangea colour depends on soil acidity, so one slope can show a whole range of shades. In 2026 the festival ran from 12 June to 6 July. The best-known photo spot is the hydrangea railway, a stretch of track running between the flowers.

Hydrangea colour depends on aluminium. In acidic soil the roots take it up easily and the flowers turn blue; in alkaline soil they bloom pink. The same variety can change colour depending on where it is planted, so watch how the shades shift from slope to slope as you walk.

What to see

• Hydrangea garden: the colonies along the ridge are the arboretum's signature. Colours look deepest in the low light before sunset.
• Forest paths: decks and earth trails under pines and broadleaf trees stay shady all season.
• Greenhouse: rows of succulents, cacti and potted plants, a good stop on a rainy day.
• Philosophy gardens: small gardens themed on Eastern and Western visions of paradise, scattered along the paths.

Combining with Haenam

Hyeonsan-myeon lies on the way to Ttangkkeut Village, the southern tip of the Korean mainland. Daeheungsa Temple on Duryunsan, one of the temples on the UNESCO list "Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries in Korea", the Usuyeong Tourist Site by Uldolmok strait, where the Battle of Myeongnyang was fought, and the Haenam Dinosaur Museum are all within driving distance, and many visitors stay a night in Haenam during the festival.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: summer 08:00–19:00, winter 08:00–17:00, open all year. Festival arrangements and admission change every year, so check the official website.
• When to go: hydrangeas peak from mid-June to early July. This overlaps with the rainy season; the morning after rain brings fresh flowers and fewer people.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours for the hydrangea garden and forest paths. Some paths are steep, so wear comfortable shoes.
• Getting there: there is a car park and driving is easiest. Daeheungsa Temple on Duryunsan and Ttangkkeut Village at Korea's southern tip are close by.