Wando Island

Cross two bridges from the Haenam Peninsula at the southwestern tip of the Korean mainland and you arrive on Wando, the main island of Wando County. At 90.1 km² it is the eighth-largest island in South Korea, and in the Silla period it was the base from which Jang Bogo commanded the sea lanes of East Asia. Today it is the centre of Korea's abalone farming and the departure point for ferries to Cheongsando, Bogildo and Jeju, so it makes a good base for a day or two of island-hopping on the south coast.

Geography and history

From Bukpyeong-myeon in Haenam, the road hops across the islet of Daldo via Wando Bridge (500 m) and Namchang Bridge, so you can drive straight onto the island. A spine of peaks runs through the middle: Sukseungbong (452 m), Baegunbong (600 m) and Sanghwangbong (644 m), with roads and villages squeezed onto the narrow coastal strip. The Haenam Peninsula shields the island from the northwesterly winter winds and a warm current flows offshore, so the climate is mild and evergreen woods of camellia and Japanese evergreen oak survive in many places.

In 828, with the approval of King Heungdeok of Silla, Jang Bogo built Cheonghaejin here, a naval base and trading port from which he cleared out pirates and controlled the shipping routes linking Silla, Tang China and Japan. The island is still a port of call on the route between Mokpo and Jeju.

What to see

• Cheonghaejin site: the remains of Jang Bogo's base lie on the small island of Jangdo off Jangjwa-ri, east of Wando town. The nearby Jang Bogo Memorial Hall fills in the story.
• Jeongdo-ri Gugyedeung: a beach on the south coast where round pebbles are stacked in nine terrace-like steps. It is a national Scenic Site; come for the rattle of pebbles rolling back with each wave.
• Wando Arboretum: a large arboretum of native warm-temperate forest, including Japanese evergreen oak, with a boardwalk along a lake. A National Wando Warm-Temperate Arboretum is planned on the same site, with opening targeted for 2031.
• Sanghwangbong: the highest peak of Obongsan. From the summit the view takes in Sinjido, Gogeumdo and the islands of the Dadohae archipelago.
• Views over Wando town: from the lookout on the hill behind town you see the harbour, the islet of Judo right in front and the Sinji Bridge. Judo's evergreen forest is a Natural Monument.

Tripto tips

• How long: one night is enough for the sights on the island itself; allow two nights or more if you want to add Cheongsando or Bogildo.
• Getting there: express and intercity buses run to Wando from Seoul and other big cities, but the journey is long (around five hours from Seoul). Another option is the KTX to Gwangju or Mokpo, then a bus. On the island a car or rental car is easiest.
• Ferries: boats to Cheongsando, Jeju and elsewhere leave from the Wando Port passenger terminal; for Bogildo and Nohwado use Hwaheungpo port in the south of the island. Sailings are often cancelled in bad weather, so check the day before.
• Best time: April–May pairs well with the canola-flower season on Cheongsando; in summer you can drive across to Myeongsasimni Beach on Sinjido. Winters are comparatively mild.
• Food: abalone is farmed widely around Wando, Nohwado, Soando, Cheongsando and Bogildo, so try abalone dishes in town.
• Where to stay: if you plan to take ferries, stay in Wando town near the port; it makes early sailings much easier.