Hwaamsa Temple (Goseong)

North of Sokcho, below Misiryeong Pass on the southern slope of Sinseonbong Peak, stands a temple whose gate reads "Geumgangsan Hwaamsa". It has long been described as lying at the foot of the peak where the twelve thousand summits of the Diamond Mountains (Geumgangsan) begin, seen from the south. In front of the temple rises Subawi, a crown-shaped rock, and a legend that rice once poured from it gave the temple its name, "Rice Rock". Beyond Subawi, a trail climbs to a ridge with a head-on view of Ulsanbawi in Seoraksan.

More than 1,200 years of history

Hwaamsa is said to have been founded in 769, the fifth year of the Silla king Hyegong, by the monk Jinpyo. Jinpyo is said to have built Balyeonsa to the east, Jangansa to the west and this temple to the south, framing the Diamond Mountains as a Buddhist land. He taught the Avatamsaka (Flower Garland) Sutra here, so the temple was first called Hwaeomsa, and records say that of his hundred disciples, thirty-one ascended to heaven and the other sixty-nine reached great enlightenment.

The temple burned and was rebuilt many times. After a fire in 1623 it was rebuilt in 1625. In 1864 it moved to its present site below Subawi and was renamed Suamsa, and from 1912 the name Hwaamsa was used officially. It burned again during the Korean War, and was largely rebuilt in its present form before the 1991 World Scout Jamboree, held on the nearby Sinpyeong plain. It was listed as Gangwon provincial cultural heritage in 1990.

Subawi and the legend of the rice

Subawi stands about 300 m south of the temple, and its name uses the character for "outstanding". The legend says that in the days when the temple was too remote to receive alms, an old white-haired man appeared in the dreams of two monks. He told them to put a staff into a small hole in the rock and shake it three times. Each mealtime, rice for two then poured out, until a visiting monk heard the story, shook the staff greedily over and over, and the rice stopped for good. Jinpyo and other eminent monks are said to have meditated on top of the rock, and people still come here to pray.

There is also a record that in 1794, under King Jeongjo, word of a prayer offered by a monk here reached the royal court, and the king made Hwaamsa a royal prayer temple and had new living quarters built.

What to see in the temple

• Stupa field: next to the main gate, fifteen stupas, believed to date from the late Joseon period, look out over the Sinpyeong plain.
• Geumganggyo Bridge: a stone bridge on three arches along the path from the gate into the temple.
• Daeungjeon, Myeongbujeon and Samseonggak halls: buildings from the 1990s rebuilding, facing towards Subawi.
• Tea house: a traditional tea house inside the grounds is a good place for a break. The temple became better known after the tvN variety show Summer Vacation filmed its cast taking part in a temple stay here.

Tripto tips

• Subawi and Sinseondae hike: a trail beside the temple passes Subawi and Sirutteok Rock on its way up to Sinseondae (also called Seongindae). The steep route is about 1.2 km and the gentler forest path about 2 km; either takes around an hour one way. From Sinseondae, a path south leads to a broad rock with a direct view of Ulsanbawi. The edge is a cliff and gusts are common, so keep well back.
• Time needed: about an hour for the temple alone, 2.5–3 hours including the Sinseondae hike.
• Opening and parking: the grounds are always open and entry is free. Parking costs KRW 4,000.
• Best time: mid to late October for autumn colour, and May–June for fresh green. Trails may close during the spring and autumn wildfire-prevention periods.
• Getting there: the address is 100 Hwaamsa-gil, Toseong-myeon, Goseong. Without a car, a taxi from Sokcho is the practical option; by car, approach via the old Misiryeong road.