Naksansa Temple

Naksansa was founded in 671 by the Silla monk Uisang on Obongsan, right on the East Sea coast, and it is one of Korea's most important sites of devotion to Gwaneum, the bodhisattva of compassion. The cliff-top hermitage of Hongnyeonam, with waves breaking below, and the sunrise pavilion of Uisangdae are both within the temple grounds; few temples sit this close to the sea. It has long been counted among the Eight Scenic Views of Gwandong.

History: a temple that kept rising from the ashes

The name comes from Naksan, short for Botarakgasan, Korean for Mount Potalaka, the mythical home of Gwaneum. Tradition says Uisang met the bodhisattva while praying in a seaside cave and was shown where to build. Naksansa has burned many times. It was destroyed during the Mongol invasions of Goryeo and rebuilt on a large scale in 1467 on the orders of King Sejo of Joseon, when the seven-storey pagoda was raised. It burned again in the Korean War, and in April 2005 a forest fire in Yangyang swept into the grounds and destroyed most of the halls within hours; sources differ on whether 20 or 21 buildings were lost. The temple was rebuilt over the following years, using a 1778 painting of Naksansa by Kim Hong-do to recreate the historic layout.

What to see

• Hongnyeonam: a hermitage built above the sea cave where Uisang prayed. Its name, "red lotus", comes from the story of a red lotus rising from the sea after his prayers.
• Uisangdae: a hexagonal pavilion on the spot where Uisang meditated, popular for watching the sun rise over the East Sea. The present structure was restored in 1995. Together with Hongnyeonam it is a designated Scenic Site.
• Seven-storey Stone Pagoda (Treasure): rebuilt in Sejo's time, standing in front of Wontongbojeon Hall.
• Hongyemun: an arched stone gate built at the temple entrance around 1467, when King Sejo visited.
• Haesu Gwaneum statue: a 16-metre statue of Gwaneum on a hilltop overlooking the sea, erected in 1977.
• Bronze bell: the bell King Yejong commissioned for his father Sejo in 1469 melted in the 2005 fire and lost its Treasure status; a new bell cast in 2006 hangs in its place.

The Gwaneum that Wonhyo missed

Naksansa also has a story about Wonhyo, Uisang's famous contemporary. On his way to the temple he met a woman without realising she was Gwaneum, and when he arrived he could not enter the cave where the bodhisattva was said to live. As a centre of Gwaneum devotion, Naksansa is counted with Bomunsa on Ganghwado and Boriam on Namhae as one of Korea's three great Gwaneum sites. Uisangdae was also chosen as one of the Eight Scenic Views of Gwandong by the poet Jeong Cheol, author of the famous travel song Gwandong Byeolgok.

The day of the 2005 fire

The forest fire that broke out in Yangyang on 5 April 2005 seemed to be dying down, but in the afternoon strong winds revived it. Around 15:30 the firebreak protecting Naksansa failed, and within an hour of the flames arriving most of the halls had burned. Restoration followed with state support: Wontongbojeon and the Hongyemun gate were rebuilt in 2007 and Binillu in 2009.

Cultural heritage

• Dry-lacquered seated Gwaneum (Treasure): the main image in Wontongbojeon, made in early Joseon and admired for its proportions and its crown.
• Stupa and reliquary set (Treasure): a stupa built in 1692; the reliquaries found intact inside were designated a Treasure together with it in 2011.

Tripto tips

• Hours: entry 06:00–17:30, and visitors must leave by 18:30. Admission is free; parking costs KRW 4,000.
• Time needed: allow 90 minutes to two hours to walk to Uisangdae, Hongnyeonam and the Gwaneum statue.
• Best time: for sunrise at Uisangdae, arrive at opening time. Crowds are huge on 1 January.
• Watch out: Hongnyeonam is an active place of prayer, so keep your voice down. Naksan Beach just below the temple is easy to add on.