Baekdamsa Temple

Baekdamsa sits at the mouth of the deep valleys of Inner Seorak, inside Seoraksan National Park. It is where the independence activist and poet Manhae Han Yong-un stayed and wrote his poetry collection The Silence of Love, and it is famous for the countless little stone towers filling the riverbed. The temple lies at the end of a valley road about 8 km long that is closed to private cars, so getting there is part of the trip.

History: a temple moved and rebuilt many times

According to tradition, it was founded by the monk Jajang in the reign of Queen Jindeok of Silla. Repeated fires forced it to move and be rebuilt again and again, and its name changed several times, including Unheungsa, Simwonsa, Seongusa and Yeongchwisa. Sources differ on when the hall at the present site was rebuilt, giving 1775 or 1957. The name "Baekdam" is said to come from the hundred pools ("dam") along the valley.

Han Yong-un wrote On the Reform of Buddhism and The Silence of Love while staying here. In the late 1980s the temple became widely known when former president Chun Doo-hwan and his wife lived here from November 1988 to December 1990. Today it hosts a basic Seon meditation hall of the Jogye Order, including the strict "gateless gate" retreat in which monks do not leave for a set period.

What to see

• Geungnakbojeon and the wooden Amitabha Buddha (Treasure): The main Buddha of the hall, made in 1748. It has a round, composed face and a strong upper body, and a dedication text and other objects found inside confirm its date, making it a leading example of early 18th-century wooden sculpture.
• Manhae Memorial Hall: An exhibition on Han Yong-un's life, literature and independence activities.
• Stone towers in the stream: The wide riverbed in front of the temple is covered with small cairns stacked by visitors making wishes. This is the most photographed scene at Baekdamsa.
• Suryeomdong Valley: The valley trail above the temple is the Inner Seorak route to Oseam and Bongjeongam.

Good to know

Oseam, a hermitage belonging to Baekdamsa, is linked to the story of a five-year-old novice monk who survived a long Seorak winter with the help of the Bodhisattva of Compassion, later turned into a children's book and an animated film. About 11 km further up, Bongjeongam at around 1,244 m holds a five-storey pagoda (Treasure) enshrining relics of the Buddha.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: Leave your car at Baekdam village in Yongdae-ri, Inje, and take the shuttle bus to the temple or walk along the valley road. The bus is paid; walking lets you enjoy the valley at your own pace.
• Fees: There is no admission fee for the temple itself. Bus fares and timetables change with the season, so check in advance.
• Time needed: 2–3 hours by bus including the temple, or a full day if you walk the valley or go on to Oseam.
• When to go: Autumn foliage season (usually October) is the most beautiful and the busiest. In summer the clear stream keeps things cool.
• Templestay: The temple runs templestay programmes.
• Watch out: It is inside Seoraksan National Park, with trail closures and permitted hiking hours. Late in the day, always check the time of the last bus down.