Cheonggyecheon

Cheonggyecheon is a stream that runs west to east through the heart of Seoul. For decades it was buried under concrete with an elevated expressway on top; in 2003–2005 the road came down and the stream was brought back to the surface. Today you walk down from the street to the water and follow it between the office towers, alongside lunchtime office workers and evening strollers.

History: buried and brought back

In the Joseon era the stream was called Gaecheon, "the dug-out stream". In 1411 King Taejong set up a special office to widen it and line its banks with stone, and stone bridges such as Gwangtonggyo were built. In 1441 King Sejong placed a water gauge west of Majeongyo bridge to measure the water level. The name Cheonggyecheon appears mostly in records from the Japanese colonial period onwards.

After the Korean War the banks filled with shacks, and from the late 1950s the stream was progressively covered over. The Cheonggye elevated highway was built on top and became a symbol of rapid industrialisation. In July 2003 the city began tearing down the highway and restoring the stream, completing the work in 2005 at a cost of more than KRW 386 billion. The project drew plenty of criticism at first, but it has become one of the city's best-loved public spaces.

What to see

• Cheonggye Plaza: the starting point, where pumped water pours into the stream.
• Gwangtonggyo: a restored Joseon stone bridge, rebuilt about 150 metres from its original site. Compare the weathered Joseon-era stones with the newer ones added during restoration.
• Wall of Hope: a 50-metre stretch between Hwanghakgyo and Biudanggyo bridges covered with more than 20,000 tiles made by citizens.
• Ogansumun: a recreated water gate with five channels, lit up at night.
• Highway piers: a few piers of the old elevated highway were deliberately left standing near Biudanggyo bridge as a reminder of what was here before.

Good to know

• Most of the water does not come from the natural source but is drawn from the Han River and groundwater and released at Cheonggye Plaza, about 40,000 m³ a day.
• Studies measured temperatures along the stream 3.3–5.9 °C lower than on a road a few blocks away.
• Fish, bird and insect species increased sharply after the restoration; you may spot night herons in the middle of downtown.

Tripto tips

• Length: sources differ: the restored section is given as 5.8 km, while the middle and lower stretch managed as a park is 8.12 km. Walking from Cheonggye Plaza to the Dongdaemun area takes a little over an hour.
• Getting there: Cheonggye Plaza lies between Gwanghwamun and Seoul City Hall, close to Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5) and City Hall Station (Lines 1 and 2).
• When to go: summer evenings are busy because the water keeps things cool. In blossom and autumn-leaf season the trees along the banks change colour.
• Safety: heavy rain can flood the walkways quickly. When Seoul issues a heavy-rain advisory the paths are closed, so follow announcements and barriers.
• Gyeongbokgung and Insadong are a short walk north; at the eastern end you reach Gwangjang Market and Dongdaemun.