Bosingak Belfry

Every year at midnight on 31 December, the bell pavilion that appears on Korean television screens is Bosingak. This two-storey pavilion stands at the main crossroads of Jongno in central Seoul, and during the Joseon dynasty its bell signalled the opening and closing of the city gates. The street name Jongno, "Bell Street", comes from it. Surrounded today by office towers, it has marked Seoul's time for more than 600 years.

History: the city's clock

A bell pavilion first stood here in 1395 (4th year of King Taejo). It was destroyed by fire and war four times and rebuilt eight times. In 1895 King Gojong gave it the name Bosingak. Badly damaged in the Korean War, it was rebuilt in 1953, and the present building, a two-storey pavilion, was erected by the city of Seoul in August 1979. The calligraphy on today's name board is said to be by President Syngman Rhee, written for the 1953 reconstruction.

In Joseon times the bell rang twice a day. At around 4 am it was struck 33 times (parul) to open the gates, and in the evening 28 times (injeong) to close them and start the curfew. The national heritage record gives the evening time as 7 pm, while other sources say 10 pm, so sources differ.

The old bell and the new

• Old Bosingak bell (Treasure): Cast in 1468, it originally hung at Wongaksa temple and was moved here in 1619 after the temple was abandoned. Over time it cracked and could no longer be rung, so it was taken down and is now preserved in a museum.
• Today's bell: Cast in 1985 with donations from citizens, it was first rung on Liberation Day that year.

What to see

• The pavilion: A two-storey structure on a high stone platform. Look up under the painted eaves to see the bell.
• Markers nearby: In front of Bosingak are a stone commemorating the March 1st Movement of 1919 and a marker showing where an anti-Western "Cheokhwabi" stele once stood. They are easy to miss, so check the flower beds around the pavilion.

The old bell's travels

The old Bosingak bell did not stay in one place. Originally at Wongaksa temple, it was moved inside Sungnyemun Gate in 1536, then during the Japanese invasions in 1597 to a hill in Myeongnye-dong (near today's Myeong-dong), and finally back to the city centre when the pavilion was restored under King Gwanghaegun. Besides marking the time, the bell is said to have been rung as a fire alarm. Bosingak was not just a building but a piece of urban infrastructure that set the rhythm of daily life in the capital.

Tripto tips

• New Year's bell: At 00:00 on 1 January the bell is struck 33 times, usually explained as washing away the 33 human afflictions of Buddhist thought before the new year begins. Crowds are enormous, so arrive early and use public transport. Commemorative ringings are also held at noon on March 1st Movement Day and Liberation Day.
• Noon ringing and hands-on experience: On normal days the bell is rung 12 times at noon every day except Monday. Book through "Bosingak bell-ringing" on the Seoul Culture Portal website and you can ring the bell yourself for free. Arrangements can change, so check the booking page.
• Getting there: Right outside Jonggak Station on Seoul Subway Line 1. The address is 54 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu.
• How long: 20–30 minutes for the pavilion itself. Cheonggyecheon stream and Insadong are a few minutes' walk away.