Hyeonchungsa Shrine

This shrine honours Admiral Yi Sun-sin, the naval commander who led Joseon's fleet during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s. The grounds in Asan were also his home in his younger years, so alongside the hall that holds his portrait you can see the house he lived in, the field where he practised archery and the family well. Entry is free and the site is spacious, which makes it an easy half-day of walking and history if you are in the Asan area.

History: a shrine rebuilt three times

After Yi died at the Battle of Noryang in 1598, Confucian scholars petitioned the court for a shrine. It was built here in 1706 on the orders of King Sukjong, who granted its name board. In the late 19th century it was closed when the regent Heungseon Daewongun abolished many private academies and shrines.

A bigger threat came under Japanese rule. In the early 1930s debts of Yi's direct descendants put the shrine's land up for auction. Once newspapers reported it, a nationwide fundraising campaign began. A preservation society founded in 1931 paid off the debt, and the shrine was rebuilt in 1932. Between 1966 and 1974 the government redeveloped the whole area into its present form, and it was listed as a Historic Site in 1967.

What to see

• Main hall: a traditional-style building from 1967 that holds Yi's official portrait. Seen from the foot of the stairs, it sits neatly framed by pine trees.
• Old shrine hall: the original 1706 building, still carrying the name board granted by King Sukjong. It was kept as a heritage building after the new hall opened.
• Old house and Chungmujeong well: the home Yi lived in as a young man, which originally belonged to his wife's family. The well in the yard is called Chungmujeong. In early spring a red plum tree blossoms in front of the house.
• Archery ground: an open field where Yi is said to have practised archery. Looking from the shooting line towards the target gives a sense of the distance involved.
• Yi Sun-sin Memorial Hall: opened in 2011, with paintings of his life and material on the sea battles. Relics such as his War Diary (Nanjung Ilgi), a National Treasure, and his long swords are kept here.

Good to know

• More than 20,000 people reportedly donated to the 1930s campaign. That a colonial-era public rallied to keep the shrine out of foreign hands is a large part of what the place means to Koreans today.
• The name board on the main hall was written by former president Park Chung-hee. Comparing it with Sukjong's board on the old hall shows two eras of the shrine side by side.
• The memorial hall opened on Yi's birthday, 28 April, and Asan also holds an annual festival in his honour.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: March to October 09:00-18:00, November to February 09:00-17:00. Closed on Mondays. Admission is free.
• Time needed: allow 1.5-2 hours for the main hall, house, archery ground and museum.
• Best time: early spring, when the red plum in front of the old house blossoms. In autumn, pair it with the nearby ginkgo avenue along Gokgyocheon Stream.
• Note: pets are not allowed. There is a car park, and the grounds are large, so wear comfortable shoes.