Hapdeok Catholic Church

On a low hill south of Hapdeok-eup in Dangjin, South Chungcheong, a pair of red-brick twin bell towers looks out over the rice fields. This is Hapdeok Catholic Church, which began as the first parish in the Chungcheong region; the present Gothic-style church dates from 1929. It is a key stop on the Catholic pilgrimage routes of the Naepo area, where many believers were persecuted in the 19th century, and pairs naturally with nearby Solmoe Shrine.

From Yangchon to Hapdeok

The parish started in 1890 as Yangchon Church in Sanggung-ri, Godeok-myeon, Yesan County. In 1899 its first parish priest, Father Curlier, bought the present site and moved the church here, renaming it Hapdeok. The building you see today was put up in 1929 by Father Perrin, known in Korean as Baek Mun-pil. After a new church opened in town in 1961 it was called "Old Hapdeok Church" for a while, regained its original name in 1997 and was designated a South Chungcheong Provincial Monument in 1998.

Hapdeok lies in Naepo, the north-western part of South Chungcheong where Catholicism took root early in Korea. During the persecutions many believers from this area were arrested and martyred, and Hapdeok is counted among the places that served as a cradle of the Korean Church. It is no coincidence that Solmoe, birthplace of St Andrew Kim Tae-gon, is just down the road.

Patterns in brick

Two bell towers rise side by side at the front, framing three doorways and three windows, all topped with round, rainbow-like arches. The walls are red brick, while the window surrounds and tower corners are picked out in grey brick. Below the windows and on each face of the towers, grey bricks form diamond patterns that you only notice up close, and they give the front much of its character. Combining brick and timber like this is rare in Korea.

Inside, rows of columns line a long nave with wooden pews under a rounded ceiling leading to the altar. After the solid brick exterior, the bright, calm interior comes as a surprise, and it is a good place to sit for a while when no Mass is being held.

The priests' graves

Behind the church lie the graves of priests who worked in the region. Father Maistre (1808–1857) taught St Andrew Kim Tae-gon and Father Thomas Choe Yang-eop when they were seminarians; he entered Korea in 1852 and died while serving a mission station in this area. Father Landre (1828–1863), who arrived in 1861, is buried here too. Father Perrin, who built the present church and served here from 1921, was taken away in 1950, during the Korean War, while hearing confessions on the eve of the Feast of the Assumption, and never returned. The parish produced so many priests and religious that it is called a "seedbed of vocations".

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: Tuesday and Saturday 11:30–18:00, Wednesday to Friday 09:00–18:00, Sunday 09:00–15:00, with a daily break from 12:00 to 13:00. Closed on Mondays. Please keep quiet during Mass.
• Getting there: Hapdeok Station on the Seohae Line, opened in November 2024, is about 1.3 km away in a straight line. Hapdeok bus terminal is also close, and the free car park takes 20 cars and 8 coaches. The parish also runs the Holy Family Pilgrims' House for overnight pilgrims.
• Combine with: Solmoe Shrine, birthplace of St Andrew Kim Tae-gon, is about 3 km away, and Hapdeokje waterside park is nearby. Allow 30–60 minutes for the church, half a day with Solmoe.
• Photos: the best view is from the foot of the steps looking up at the towers around sunset. The church also appeared in the TV drama Angel's Last Mission: Love.