Insa-dong

Brushes and hanji paper, old ceramics and quiet tea houses all share one street. Insa-dong has been at the heart of Seoul since the Joseon dynasty, and today its main street and side alleys are lined with craft shops, galleries and tea rooms, making it the city's best-known street for traditional culture.

History: from officials' quarter to antiques street

The name combines one syllable each from Gwanin-bang and Daesa-dong, two districts of Joseon-era Seoul. In the early Joseon period government officials lived here, and a stream ran where the main street is now. Under Japanese rule, families who had fallen on hard times sold their belongings here, and an antiques market grew up. From the 1970s galleries, brush shops and picture framers moved in.

In the 1960s foreign residents called the area "Mary's Alley". Seoul designated Insa-dong a street of traditional culture in 1988 and the city's first cultural district in 2002. The paved street you walk on today was redesigned in 2000 by the architect Kim Jin-ae.

What to see

• Insadong-gil: the main street, about 0.7 km long and 12 m wide, running from the Anguk-dong roundabout to Tapgol Park. Many of the oldest tea houses and hanok restaurants hide in the narrow alleys on either side.
• Brush and paper shops: shops selling brushes, ink sticks, inkstones and hanji paper cluster here, and it is fun to choose a brush yourself.
• Galleries and antique shops: the many galleries often hold free exhibitions; antique dealers sell old ceramics, books and woodwork.
• Ssamziegil: a crafts arcade opened in 2004, where a gentle ramp spirals around a courtyard up to the top floor instead of stairs.
• Hangeul signs: look out for an international coffee chain whose sign is written in Hangeul rather than English.

Good to know

As visitor numbers have grown, more shops have little to do with traditional culture, and critics regularly point out that many souvenirs are imported. When buying crafts, look for a "made in Korea" label or the maker's name.

Insa-dong in numbers

Insa-dong covers only about 12.7 ha, yet it was once said to hold 40% of the country's antique shops and art galleries and 90% of its traditional stationery shops. Tongmungwan, often called Seoul's oldest bookshop, is on this street. Around 2000 the area drew some 100,000 visitors on a single Sunday, and Queen Elizabeth II visited in 1999.

Tourist information centres at the north and south ends of the main street hand out maps and event information. Step one block off the main street and you find tea houses in converted hanok and restaurants with courtyards; the side alleys feel more like the real Insa-dong than the main road.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: walk from Anguk Station (Line 3), Jonggak Station (Line 1) or Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3 and 5).
• Car-free street: Insadong-gil is closed to traffic at set times. Sources differ on the days and hours, so check the signs on site.
• Time: 1–2 hours for the street and alleys; with a tea house stop, half a day passes quickly.
• Combine it with: Jogyesa Temple, Unhyeongung and Tapgol Park are close by, and Bukchon Hanok Village and Gyeongbokgung Palace are a short walk north.