Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Unhyeongung is the house where Gojong, the 26th king of Joseon, was born and lived until he took the throne at the age of 12, and where his father, the regent Heungseon Daewongun, ran the country for almost a decade. It is much smaller than a palace, but it lets you see up close how a royal family actually lived. It sits in the middle of the city between Insadong and Changdeokgung Palace, yet it is quiet and free to enter.

History: from family home to seat of power

The name Unhyeon refers to the hill in front of the Seoungwan, the office in charge of astronomy and weather. The house started as an ordinary upper-class residence, but after Gojong was crowned in 1863, the Daewongun governed from here and the complex grew considerably. Most of today's buildings date from 1863–1873: Noandang and Norakdang were completed in 1864, Irodang in 1870. At its peak the residence even had a gate leading directly towards the palace, but it shrank considerably during the Japanese colonial period. The descendants sold it to the Seoul city government in 1993, and after three years of restoration it opened to the public in 1996. It is a designated Historic Site.

What to see

• Noandang: the Daewongun's reception hall, where he received guests and discussed state affairs. Its name comes from a line in the Analects about bringing comfort to the elderly. Look for the wooden sunshades fixed to the ends of the eaves.
• Norakdang: the largest and central building. The royal wedding of Gojong and Empress Myeongseong took place here in 1866, and the future empress was taught palace etiquette here after she was chosen.
• Irodang: the private quarters of the Daewongun's wife. It is a closed, square building with no door to the outside, reachable only from the inner quarters.
• Exhibition and period rooms: rooms furnished with household objects and mannequins in period clothing help you picture daily life.

A story worth knowing

During the military mutiny of 1882, the Daewongun was seized here by Qing troops and taken to Tianjin in China. That the most powerful man in the country could be abducted from his own home says a lot about Joseon's position at the time. Every spring and autumn, a re-enactment of Gojong and Myeongseong's royal wedding is staged at the residence.

Details worth looking for

• Yeonghwaru: a raised wooden floor projecting south from the east end of Noandang, where the Daewongun entertained guests. Its lower part is closed with boards and pierced by an arched opening, practical and decorative at the same time.
• Bat motif: on the plastered gable walls at the back of Noandang, bats, symbols of good fortune, are painted. Walk round the back to find them.
• Linked buildings: a long covered corridor runs north–south along the east side of the buildings, so people could move between them without going out in the rain.
• Sujiksa: the long row of rooms to the right of the entrance, used by the guards and staff who looked after the residence.

The Unhyeongung that disappeared

The original residence was much larger, stretching to the Western-style building across the road now used by Duksung Women's University, as well as nearby schools and a cultural centre. That Western-style building, put up in the 1910s, is included in the Historic Site together with Unhyeongung. The house where Gojong actually lived stood behind the residence to the north-east but was demolished in 1966. Behind Irodang there once grew an old pine that the boy Gojong liked to climb; the tree is gone and only a stone tablet in its memory remains. The gates that let Gojong come and go from Changdeokgung, and the Daewongun's private gate, have also disappeared.

Tripto tips

• Hours: April–October 09:00–19:00, November–March 09:00–18:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing. Closed on Mondays (or the next weekday if Monday is a public holiday). Admission is free.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour is enough for the buildings and the exhibition.
• Getting there: the residence is close to Anguk Station on Seoul Subway Line 3. There is no visitor car park, so come by public transport.
• Combine with: Insadong, Changdeokgung and Bukchon Hanok Village are all within walking distance, making an easy half-day walk. Check the official website for wedding re-enactment dates.