Jikjisa Temple

On the eastern slopes of Hwangaksan, Jikjisa is the head temple of the Jogye Order's 8th district, overseeing 54 branch temples across north-western North Gyeongsang. Its name means "pointing straight with a finger", and there is plenty to see and hear here, from the stories behind that name to the fact that Samyeong, the monk who led a warrior-monk army against the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, was ordained here. Buses run from central Gimcheon, so it combines easily with a KTX trip to Gimcheon (Gumi) Station.

History: a founding legend of 418 and Great Master Samyeong

The temple says it was founded in 418, under King Nulji of Silla, by the monk Ado. Two stories explain the name. In one, Ado pointed from Dorisa Temple in Seonsan towards Hwangaksan and said there was a good temple site on that mountain. In the other, Great Master Neungyeo rebuilt the temple in 936 without a ruler, measuring everything with his own hands. A record also survives saying that in 930 the monk Cheonmuk built a sutra hall here and enshrined a Buddhist canon written in gold ink.

Most buildings burned during the Japanese invasions; only three, the Birojeon (Thousand Buddha Hall), the Heavenly Kings' Gate and Jahamun Gate, are said to have survived. The main hall was rebuilt in 1602, and the present building dates from a reconstruction in 1735; it was designated a Treasure in 2008. From 1958 the abbot Nogwon led a major rebuilding, and today the temple has more than 65 buildings.

Samyeong (1544–1610) lost both parents as a teenager, became a disciple of Great Master Sinmuk at Jikjisa and was abbot here by the age of 30. A flat rock beside the Heavenly Kings' Gate carries a story: Sinmuk dozed off during meditation, dreamt of a golden dragon coiled around the ginkgo tree by the gate, rushed out and found a boy asleep on the rock. The boy became Samyeong. The ginkgo burned in 1800, but the rock is still there.

What to see

• Daeungjeon (Main Hall): rebuilt in 1735. Inside are three Buddhist paintings made in 1744 (a Treasure) and colourful murals; look closely at the richly decorated altar platform.
• The pagodas in front of the main hall: these stone pagodas originally stood at other temple sites; four Silla-period pagodas were moved here during Nogwon's rebuilding.
• Birojeon (Thousand Buddha Hall): traditionally founded by Neungyeo under the first Goryeo king, it houses a thousand Buddhas carved from jade-like stone, each with its own face. Among them is one figure of a naked child; legend says that if you spot it at first glance on entering, you will have a son. A juniper more than 500 years old stands in front.
• Mountain gate and Heavenly Kings' Gate: walk slowly up the approach from the large gate inscribed "Foremost temple of the East, Hwangaksan" through the Heavenly Kings' Gate to Manseru Pavilion. Samyeong's rock sits beside the Heavenly Kings' Gate.

Nearby

• Jikji Culture Park: at the temple entrance, with a musical fountain, sculptures, poetry stones and walking paths; free and always open.
• Samyeong Park, Gimcheon: next to Jikji Culture Park, an easy addition after the temple.
• Hwangaksan: from the summit, Birobong (1,111 m), you are said to see Gyeongsang, Chungcheong and Jeolla provinces at once. Trails lead up past Unsuam hermitage behind the temple.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: from KTX Gimcheon (Gumi) Station take a city bus to Gimcheon bus terminal, then bus 11 or 111 (for Jikjisa) to the Jikjisa terminal. Buses for Jikjisa also leave from Gimcheon Station. By taxi it is about 20 minutes from Gimcheon Station.
• Time needed: about 1.5 hours from the gate to the main hall and Birojeon; add Jikji Culture Park and plan half a day.
• Best time: fresh spring green and autumn colours on the forest approach. A templestay programme is also offered.
• Etiquette: keep quiet in the halls and avoid taking photos during services.