Juwangsan

Stand in the courtyard of Daejeonsa Temple and you see a cluster of rock towers rising behind its roofs like fingers pointing at the sky. Juwangsan is only 720.6 m high, but cliffs, gorges and waterfalls carved out of hardened volcanic ash are packed into a single valley, which is why it counts among Korea's three great rock mountains. The best part is that the valley trail climbs so gently that you can reach the waterfalls without proper hiking boots.

History and name: the legend of a hidden king

Because the cliffs stand around it like a folding screen, the mountain was once also called Seokbyeongsan, "stone-screen mountain". The current name comes from legend. The best-known version says that Ju Wang, a man who fled from Jin China, hid here until he was killed by the Silla general Ma; another version speaks of a Silla royal who gave up the throne to live here as an ascetic. The story lives on in place names such as Juwanggul, the cave where the king hid, and Mujanggul, where he is said to have stored his weapons.

On 30 March 1976 Juwangsan became Korea's 12th national park, and today it is a key site of the Cheongsong UNESCO Global Geopark. The Juwang valley itself was designated a Scenic Site in 2003.

What to see

• Gibam cliffs and Daejeonsa: behind the temple at the trailhead rises a seven-peaked rock face. Legend says Ju Wang and General Ma fought their battle here.
• Geupsudae: a cliff about 3 km up the valley from Daejeonsa, with the clearest columnar jointing in the park.
• Three waterfalls: first Yongchu Falls, where the water twists through a rock gorge, then Jeolgu Falls with the Seonnyeotang pool, and finally Yongyeon Falls, a two-tier fall with twin streams. Yongyeon is the largest in the park; look for the cave-like hollows in its walls, left behind as the fall gradually cut its way back.
• Jusanji Pond: a small reservoir in the south of the park, begun in 1720 and finished the following year. Old willows grow straight out of the water, and the pond was the setting for the film "Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring". It is said never to have dried up, even in droughts.

Good to know

Juwangsan's royal azaleas have their own name, sudallae. According to legend they first bloomed the year after Ju Wang, struck by General Ma's arrow, bled into the stream and turned it red. They usually flower along the valley in early May, when a small azalea festival is held.

Nearby

• Jusanji Pond: easiest to reach by car from the main entrance; it is at its best with low cloud after rain or in autumn colour.
• Jeolgol Gorge: a quieter valley running about 5 km from the Jeolgol ranger station to Daemun Bridge.
• Dalgi Mineral Spring: a mineral spring that is part of the Cheongsong geopark and a regular stop on Juwangsan itineraries.

Tripto tips

• Time: allow about 3 hours for the walk from Daejeonsa to Yongyeon Falls and back. Climbing to the main ridge turns it into a full-day hike.
• Trail hours: entry times vary by season and section, so check the Juwangsan National Park website before you go. Trails may close during wildfire-prevention periods or bad weather.
• Parking: use the Sangui car park at the valley entrance; fees depend on vehicle size and season.
• Season: azalea time in spring and the autumn foliage season bring weekend crowds from mid-morning. Early weekday starts are the most relaxed.