Naganeupseong Walled Town

From the top of the wall you look down on hundreds of rounded thatched roofs huddled in a plain below the hills. Naganeupseong was the seat of Nagan County in the Joseon period, and it is one of very few places where the walls, the government buildings and a commoners' thatched village survive together. Above all, this is not a film set or an open-air museum: people still live in the houses, farming and running guesthouses.

History: walls against pirates

As Japanese pirate raids grew more frequent at the end of Goryeo, the local-born general Kim Bin-gil raised an earthen wall here in 1397. According to the Annals of King Sejong, the wall was rebuilt in stone and enlarged over several years from 1424, and General Im Gyeong-eop, who became county governor in 1626, is credited with the stone fortress you see today. Nagan County existed until 1908.

The fortress and village were designated a Historic Site together in 1983 and added to Korea's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage in 2010. After Im Gyeong-eop's death, villagers built a memorial pavilion for him, which still stands in the town.

What to see

• The wall: built of squared natural stones one to two metres across on open flatland, about 4 m high, 3–4 m thick and 1,410 m around, without a break. Look for the east, west and south gates and the bastions that jut out from the line.
• Three neighbourhoods: the town is divided into Dongnae, Namnae and Seonae. Wooden verandas, kitchens, clay walls, earthenware jar terraces and low stone walls show how ordinary southern Koreans lived.
• Government buildings: the magistrate's office (dongheon), the guesthouse for officials (gaeksa), a market area and a jail you can step into.
• Listed houses: nine 19th-century thatched houses are individually protected. Names such as the clerk's house, the tavern and the L-shaped house hint at their former uses.

Good to know

Historical dramas such as "Dae Jang Geum" and "Gu Am Heo Jun" were filmed here. Unlike other filming locations, though, these are real homes that have been lived in for centuries. The Nagan Folk Culture Festival takes place in May.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: January and November–December 09:00–17:30, February–April and October 09:00–18:00, May–September 08:30–18:30.
• Admission: adults KRW 4,000, youth and soldiers KRW 2,500, children KRW 1,500. A Suncheon combined ticket covering other city sights is also available. Parking is free.
• Activities: permanent programmes include gayageum, blacksmithing and natural dyeing. Fees and times vary, so phone ahead. Guided tours in English, Japanese and Chinese must be booked in advance.
• Route: enter by the east gate, walk along the top of the wall to the south-west corner, then come down into the lanes. Allow 2–3 hours.
• Etiquette: many houses are lived in. Don't walk into yards uninvited, even if they are open.
• Staying over: several thatched houses inside the walls take overnight guests.

Nearby

• Seonamsa and Songgwangsa: two temples on either side of Jogyesan, 20–30 minutes away by car.
• Suncheon Bay National Garden and Wetland Reserve: towards central Suncheon, easy to combine in one day.
• The Deep Rooted Tree Museum: a city museum right next to the walled town.