Namsangol Hanok Village

A few steps from Chungmuro Station the office blocks give way to tiled roofs and earthen walls. Namsangol Hanok Village, on the northern slope of Namsan, is a group of five Joseon-era hanok, traditional Korean houses, moved here and restored, together with a traditional garden. Unlike Bukchon it is not a lived-in neighbourhood, which means you can walk into courtyards and look into rooms freely, and admission is free.

History: from army base to hanok village

In the Joseon period this valley, with its stream and pavilion, was a favourite summer retreat. It was called Cheonghakdong, "valley of the blue crane", and counted among the five most scenic valleys of the capital. In modern times, though, it was a military zone occupied by the Capital Defense Command.

Change came in 1989, when the city of Seoul took over the land under a project to restore Namsan's original landscape. Hanok scattered around Seoul were moved here and rebuilt, a stream was channelled through the valley, and a pavilion and garden were created. The village opened in 1998.

What to see

• Five hanok: These were homes of Joseon aristocrats and officials, originally located in different neighbourhoods of Seoul. Most were rebuilt with their original materials; only one, too decayed to reuse, was recreated with new timber. Each is furnished to reflect its owner's rank and character, so it is interesting to compare how the men's quarters, women's quarters and kitchens were arranged.
• Traditional garden and Cheonugak Pavilion: A garden with a flowing stream, a pond and a pavilion. It is open 24 hours, which makes it a pleasant evening walk.
• Seoul Millennium Time Capsule Plaza: In 1994, a time capsule was buried here to mark the 600th anniversary of Seoul as capital. The capsule is due to be opened 400 years later, in 2394.
• Activities: Programmes include trying on hanbok, hanji paper crafts, traditional etiquette and yunnori, a traditional board game, plus performances. On holidays such as Seollal, Chuseok and the first full moon of the lunar year, seasonal events draw big crowds.

What to look for in the houses

The five houses differ in shape and size. In one, the women's quarters, men's quarters and gatehouse join to enclose a square courtyard; another has a U-shaped main wing with a straight men's wing attached; a third is a modest home with just two wings. One house has a separate shrine building where ancestors were honoured. Compare where each places its kitchen fireplace, wooden-floored hall and jar terrace, and you start to see how people of different ranks lived in Joseon. The village also has a space where traditional crafts are shown and sold. Traditional weddings, seasonal festivals and folk events are held every year, and on some days there are taekwondo demonstrations or guided tours.

Tripto tips

• Hours and fees: The houses are open 09:00–21:00 from April to October and 09:00–20:00 from November to March. The village is closed on Mondays, but opens if Monday is a public holiday. Admission is free.
• Getting there: Close to Chungmuro Station on Seoul Subway Lines 3 and 4. The address is 28 Toegye-ro 34-gil, Jung-gu.
• How long: 1–2 hours for the houses and garden. It sits at the foot of Namsan, so it pairs well with a walk on the mountain.
• Tip: Activities run on set days and times, so check the schedule on the official website before you go.