Sammaksa Temple

Sammaksa sits high on the slopes of Samseongsan, the mountain shared by Anyang and Seoul's Gwanak and Geumcheon districts, at the end of a long forest climb. It is not a large temple, but within one compound you find a late Joseon Buddha triad carved into rock, a Goryeo-era stone pagoda and a pair of fertility rocks from an even older folk religion. Many hikers stop here, so it fits neatly into a day on the mountain.

A mountain of three tents

The temple's name is said to come from three Silla monks, Wonhyo, Uisang and Yunpil, who pitched tents (mak) on the mountain to meditate. Sources differ on the founding date: 677 or 667. The mountain's name, Samseongsan ("Three Saints Mountain"), is also said to refer to them.

The temple was once renamed Gwaneumsa before returning to its old name. Legend has it that the monk Muhak prayed here for the new dynasty's prosperity before the Joseon capital moved to Hanyang (Seoul). Today it is a branch temple of Yongjusa in the Jogye Order.

What to see

• Rock-carved Buddha triad and Chilbojeon: a shallow niche in the rock face holds Chiseonggwang Buddha flanked by the Sunlight and Moonlight bodhisattvas. An inscription below dates it to 1763, making it a reference work for late Joseon sculpture. It blends Buddhism with the folk cult of the Seven Stars, and the hall built in front serves as both shrine and shelter. It is a Gyeonggi Province heritage site.
• Three-storey stone pagoda: a sturdy 2.55 m Goryeo pagoda with three-tier roof supports typical of the period. Legend says it was raised by the monk Kim Yun-hu, who shot the Mongol commander Sartaq dead in 1232, to celebrate the victory.
• Male and female rocks: two natural boulders, about 1.5 m and 1.1 m tall, northwest of the Seven Stars shrine. They are said to have been worshipped for fertility and long life before the temple existed, and people still rub coins onto them while making a wish.
• Gamnojeong stone basin: a stone water trough donated by several patrons in 1837. Hikers still stop here for a drink.
• Other halls: Myeongbujeon with Ksitigarbha and the Ten Kings of the underworld, Cheonbuljeon filled with small Buddha figures, and Samgwija, three characters for "turtle" carved into rock, are scattered around the grounds.

Good to know

Although close to the city, the temple stands high enough that its courtyard looks out over Anyang and southwestern Seoul. Other temples such as Hoapsa and Yeomburam lie on the same mountain, and several hiking routes link them along the ridges.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 40–60 minutes for the temple itself, or 2–3 hours including the walk up and down.
• Getting there: the simplest route is Line 1 to Gwanak Station, Exit 2, a bus to the Gyeongin National University of Education stop, then 30–40 minutes uphill on a paved road. A forest trail from the Gwanak Arboretum entrance via Sangburam hermitage (about 3.1 km, around two hours) is the scenic alternative.
• Best time: April–May for fresh green and October–November for autumn colour. Buddha's Birthday and the Chilseok festival (seventh day of the seventh lunar month) draw crowds.
• By car: there is parking below the temple, but the access road is narrow and steep. At weekends public transport and walking are the better choice.
• Etiquette: the rock-carved triad is still an active prayer hall. If people are praying, skip the photos and move quietly.