Gwanaksan Mountain

Gwanaksan is a 632 m granite mountain rising on Seoul's southern edge, and you can start hiking straight from a subway station. At the summit, Yeonjudae, a small hermitage clings to the top of a sheer cliff – one of the most dramatic sights on any mountain near the capital. On clear days the view takes in central Seoul and the Han River.

A rocky peak shaped like a hat

The name means "hat-shaped peak", after its resemblance to a traditional gat hat. The mountain straddles Gwanak and Geumcheon districts of Seoul and the cities of Anyang and Gwacheon, and it was long counted among the five great peaks of the Gyeonggi region. Granite peaks and deep valleys keep the climbing varied, and the Seoul side was designated a city park in 1968. Sources put annual visitor numbers at 5 to 7 million, a sign of how popular it is with Seoulites. Tradition held that Gwanaksan carried "fire energy" – one story says Sungnyemun's name board hangs vertically to ward it off.

What to see

• Yeonjudae: a hermitage hall built on the summit cliff. In early Joseon it was reportedly called Yeomjudae, "the terrace for thinking of the king".
• Yeonjuam Temple: about 300 m below Yeonjudae on the Gwacheon side. Records say it was rebuilt in 1396 and moved to its current site by Grand Prince Hyoryeong in 1411; the 4 m three-storey stone pagoda in front of the main hall is also attributed to him.
• Weather radar: the white domed station beside the summit makes the mountain easy to recognise from afar.
• Rocky ridges: the ridge from Sadang crosses many rock outcrops with wide views.

Trails

• Gwacheon Hyanggyo route: about 4.1 km from Gwacheon Hyanggyo past Yeonjuam to Yeonjudae; even at a slow pace it takes around 2 hours, on relatively gentle slopes.
• Seoul National University route: climbs from the university side along a valley and is popular with beginners.
• Sadang route: a tougher route over several rocky ridges, better for experienced hikers.

Grand Prince Hyoryeong and Yeonjudae

Grand Prince Hyoryeong, who moved Yeonjuam to its present site, was the second son of King Taejong. He is remembered for respecting his father's wishes and yielding the throne to his younger brother, Grand Prince Chungnyeong – the future King Sejong. Records note that entertaining Ming envoys involved heavy drinking, yet Hyoryeong could not drink a drop. Scholars and writers also left calligraphy on the mountain's rocks: Song Si-yeol carved a line by Choe Chi-won, and Kim Jeong-hui carved the pen name of Sin Wi.

Tripto tips

• Access: no entrance fee; the mountain is open all year.
• Safety: rocks and steps are slippery after rain or snow. In winter, days are short, so start early.
• Crowds: trails are busy on weekend mornings; weekdays or early starts are quieter.
• Around the mountain: Seoul National University's main campus lies at the north-western foot and the Gwacheon Government Complex to the east, making it easy to head on after the hike.
• Time needed: allow 3–5 hours for a round trip and bring water and snacks.