Rock-carved Buddha Triad in Seosan

On the slopes of Gayasan in Seosan, a short climb from the Yonghyeon Valley leads to a cliff where three Buddhas are smiling. After more than 1,300 years of wind and rain, their full cheeks and gentle smiles are still clear. The Rock-carved Buddha Triad of Yonghyeon-ri, Seosan, a National Treasure, is widely known by its nickname, "the Smile of Baekje".

History: a Baekje Buddha on the sea route

The triad is thought to have been carved in the late Baekje period, around the 7th century. Seosan lay on the sea route linking the Baekje capitals of Ungjin (Gongju) and Sabi (Buyeo) with China, along which Buddhist culture arrived from China and Goguryeo, and the carving is believed to be connected to that route.

After the fall of Baekje, only local people knew about it until 1959, when a researcher surveying the nearby Borwonsa temple site reported it. Villagers had long called the rock "Inbawi", which suggests they knew about the carving all along. It was designated a National Treasure in 1962 and given its current official name in 2010. Its discovery revealed what Baekje Buddhist sculpture really looked like and confirmed links with statues previously only assumed to be of Baekje style.

What to see

• The central standing Buddha: the largest figure, identified as Shakyamuni. The crescent eyebrows, almond-shaped eyes and slightly raised corners of the mouth are the famous Baekje smile. The halo behind the head is carved with lotus and flame motifs and three small Buddhas.
• The two attendants: on one side a standing bodhisattva, on the other a pensive bodhisattva seated with one leg raised. The group is interpreted as Shakyamuni, Maitreya and Dipankara from the Lotus Sutra.
• How it was carved: the rock face was cut back slightly so the figures stand out in relief. An overhang above shelters the figures like eaves.

Good to know

The faces change with the light: stern at some hours, kindly at others. Even on the same day morning and afternoon look different, and some visitors come back at a second time of day. Choosing a cliff deep in the mountains for the carving and placing a small hermitage nearby is regarded as an early form of Korean cave-temple design.

Nearby

• Borwonsa Temple Site: an old temple site further into the valley; it was a survey here in 1959 that brought the triad to wider attention.
• Yonghyeon Valley and Recreational Forest: a clear stream below the Buddhas and a forest retreat close by.
• Sudeoksa Temple: a historic temple in Yesan about 13 km away, easy to combine into a day trip.
• Seosan Arame-gil Cheonnyeon Miso-gil: a walking trail that passes the Buddha triad.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: September–June 09:00–18:00, July–August 09:00–21:00. Open every day, free of charge.
• Facilities: car park and toilets.
• Timing: the smile is clearest on a sunny day. Try comparing the faces at different times.
• Time needed: 30 minutes to an hour including the walk up. Add an hour if you walk on to the Borwonsa site.