Sudeoksa Temple

Sudeoksa sits on the slopes of Deoksungsan in Yesan, South Chungcheong, and its main hall, built in 1308, still stands today. It is one of the oldest wooden buildings in Korea whose construction date is documented, so it is a key stop if you want to see Goryeo-era architecture with your own eyes. The temple is also where the monks who revived Korean Seon (Zen) Buddhism in modern times lived and taught.

History: a temple from the Baekje kingdom

Its founding date is uncertain, but records say the monk Hyehyeon lectured on the Lotus Sutra at Sudeoksa in 601, the second year of King Mu of Baekje, so it must be older. Of the twelve Baekje temples named in historical texts, Sudeoksa is the only one that survives, and Baekje roof-tile fragments have been found on the grounds. During dismantling and repairs in 1937, an ink inscription revealed that the main hall was built in 1308, the 34th year of King Chungnyeol of Goryeo. In the late 19th century the monk Gyeongheo lived here and revived the broken lineage of Seon practice; his disciple Mangong rebuilt the temple and trained many students. Today it is the Jogye Order's Deoksung Chongnim training monastery and head temple of its 7th district, overseeing 36 branch temples.

What to see

• Main hall (Daeungjeon): a National Treasure. Instead of bright paintwork it shows bare wood, and its side elevation, where posts, beams and walls divide the surface into panels, looks almost like an abstract painting.
• Three-storey stone pagoda: standing in the courtyard in front of the hall.
• Temple treasures: 15 designated heritage items, including a large hanging painting of Rocana Buddha and a wooden Buddha triad. A geomungo zither said to have belonged to King Gongmin and plaques by the calligrapher Kim Jeong-hui are also kept here.
• Hermitages on Deoksungsan: the path behind the temple climbs to Jeonghyesa and the stupa of Master Mangong.

A legend

A young man named Sudeok fell for a maiden called Deoksung and proposed; she agreed on condition that he build a temple. Only on his third attempt, after letting go of his greed, was it completed – but when he reached for her, she vanished into a rock, leaving a single sock behind. She was an incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, and the temple and mountain are said to be named after the pair.

Carrying on the Seon lineage

Gyeongheo's disciples spread his teaching across Korea: Hyewol went south to Busan, while Hanam founded another lineage at Woljeongsa on Odaesan. Mangong, who stayed at Sudeoksa, is said to have spent his last years at Jeonwolsa near the summit of Deoksungsan, and his stupa, inscribed "the world is one flower", is registered national heritage. Monks still live and meditate at Jeonghyesa higher up the mountain.

Tripto tips

• Admission: heritage entrance fees were abolished in May 2023, so entry is free. Parking may be charged separately.
• Photos: the main hall is most admired from the side. Afternoon light brings out the wood grain.
• Etiquette: this is an active training monastery; stay out of marked areas and keep your voice down.
• Time needed: about 1 hour for the main temple, 2–3 hours if you climb to the hermitages.