Sutasa Temple

At the foot of Gongjaksan in Hongcheon, where a valley of broad rock slabs and clear pools begins, stands Sutasa. It is one of the oldest temples in the inland western part of Gangwon, with a late Joseon main hall, clay statues of the Four Heavenly Kings and treasures such as the "Worin Seokbo", a Buddhist book printed in the early days of the Korean alphabet. After the temple you can carry on along the valley path and into an ecological forest, so it makes a good half-day stop on a trip to Chuncheon or Hongcheon.

History: from Ilwolsa to Sutasa

Accounts of the temple's origins vary. One says it was founded by the monk Wonhyo in 708, under King Seongdeok of Silla; another says Wonhyo founded Ilwolsa on Ujeoksan and that it was moved to its present site on Gongjaksan in 1569 and renamed Sutasa. All its buildings burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, and the monk Gongjam rebuilt it in 1636.

What to see

• Daejeokgwangjeon: the main hall, dedicated to Vairocana Buddha and a provincial cultural heritage of Gangwon. Look closely at the hipped-and-gabled roof, the latticed doors and the ceiling decoration.
• Clay Four Heavenly Kings: painted clay guardians in the entrance hall, greeting visitors with huge eyes and ornate armour.
• Heunghoeru Pavilion: the temple's pavilion, also a provincial cultural heritage.
• Bronze bell (Treasure): a Joseon-period temple bell designated a Treasure.
• "Worin Seokbo", volumes 17–18 (Treasure): a Buddhist text printed under King Sejo, a precious early source for the Korean alphabet. A wooden seated Avalokitesvara and Buddhist paintings are among its other treasures.
• Three-storey pagoda and Hongudang stupa: stone relics in and around the grounds.

Sutasa Valley and Gongjaksan

Gongjaksan (887 m) is said to be named for its outline, like a peacock spreading its tail. The Sutasa Valley in front of the temple runs about 12 km to Nocheon-ri, with one broad rock slab and large pool after another. On the flat rocks by the stream, visitors have built countless small stone cairns. The route of about 8 km from the temple via Suta Bridge and Yongdam to Mulgol in Nocheon-ri takes 4 to 5 hours.

Good to know

• Gongjaksan is counted among Korea's 100 famous mountains, known for spring azaleas, autumn colours, rock cliffs and stands of old, bonsai-like pines.
• Seen from Hongcheon town, the mountain is said to look like a giant lying on his back facing the sky.

Nearby

• Gongjaksan Ecological Forest: a forest within walking distance of the temple, good for a short walk with the valley.
• Sutasa Rural Theme Park: an activity park near the temple.
• Hongcheon River: winding through the Hongcheon area, good for a riverside drive on the way.

Tripto tips

• Access: always open and free. There is a car park below the temple.
• Getting there: about 10 km east of Hongcheon town, easiest by car.
• Time needed: an hour for the temple, 2 to 3 hours with part of the valley path, a full day for the walk to Nocheon-ri.
• Best time: spring azaleas, autumn colours and the cool valley in summer. The stream rocks are slippery, so take care near the water.