Pungsuwon Catholic Church

In a valley in Hoengseong, Gangwon Province, a red-brick bell tower rises from a low hill. Pungsuwon Catholic Church began as a village of believers hiding from persecution, and the church itself was designed by a Korean priest and built by parishioners who fired the bricks themselves. It was the first Gothic-style church in Gangwon and the mother parish of many churches across Gangwon and eastern Gyeonggi.

History: a village of hidden believers

After the Sinyu persecution of 1801, around 1802 or 1803 some 40 Catholics from Yongin, led by Sin Tae-bo (Peter), are said to have wandered for eight days in search of refuge before settling in this valley. Deep in the mountains and far from officials, they cleared slash-and-burn fields and made pottery, keeping their faith for some 80 years without a priest. More refugees arrived during the great persecution of 1866.

The parish was formally founded when the French missionary Father Le Merre arrived as its first pastor; sources differ on the year, 1888 or 1890. At the time Pungsuwon looked after mission stations in 12 counties, among them Chuncheon, Wonju, Hwacheon, Yanggu, Hongcheon, Hoengseong, Pyeongchang and Yangpyeong, and used a thatched building of some twenty bays as its church.

The present church was designed by Father Jeong Gyu-ha (Augustine), who became the second pastor in 1896. He led the work with a Chinese builder, while parishioners fired bricks and hauled in huge timbers, and the church was finished in 1907. Over the following decades the parishes of Wonju (1896), Chuncheon (1920) and Hongcheon (1948) branched off from Pungsuwon.

What to see

• The facade: a projecting central bell tower with an arched doorway, a round window on the second level and paired arched openings on the third, combined with buttresses that narrow as they rise to give a strong vertical lift.
• The interior: rows of columns divide a central nave from two side aisles. Mortar lines were painted onto the columns to make them look like brick.
• Old rectory: the brick building beside the church, well preserved and registered as national cultural heritage in 2005.
• Statue of Christ: a path climbs the hill behind the church to a white statue of Christ with outstretched arms, with views back over the church and the valley.

Good to know

• Pungsuwon is known as the first church in Gangwon built by a Korean priest and the seventh church built in Korea. It was designated a Gangwon tangible cultural heritage in 1982.
• Since 1920 a Eucharistic Congress has been held here every year on the feast of Corpus Christi, interrupted only for three years during the Korean War, drawing believers from all over the country.

Nearby

• Chiaksan National Park: about 28 km south in Wonju; the church in the morning and a hike in the afternoon makes a full day.
• Hoengseong town: the county seat about 15 km east, handy for a meal on the way back.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: the church is always open, every day, and free. There is parking and toilets.
• Etiquette: this is a working parish. Avoid visiting the interior during Mass and keep your voice down inside. There is no foreign-language guidance on site.
• When to go: fresh spring green and autumn colour set off the red brick best. On the day of the Eucharistic Congress the grounds are packed with pilgrims.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour for the church, rectory and hillside path, an easy stop on the drive from Seoul to eastern Gangwon.
• Information: 033-342-0035.