Taebaeksan

Rising on the border of Taebaek in Gangwon and Bonghwa in North Gyeongsang, Taebaeksan has long been called the sacred mountain of the Korean people. At 1,567 m it is not especially high, but its summit area still holds Cheonjedan, a stone altar where rites to Heaven have been held for millennia. In winter every branch is coated with white rime, making it a favourite snow hike, and in 2016 it became Korea's 22nd national park.

History: a mountain for honouring Heaven

Old records, including the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), describe Taebaeksan as a sacred mountain where rites were performed. From the Silla period, officials and ordinary people offered sacrifices to Heaven here. Until the Goryeo period a ritual building stood on the summit; it was destroyed in early Joseon, and only the stone altars remain. The rites continued through Silla, Goryeo and Joseon into the colonial era, and a ceremony is still held here every year on National Foundation Day (3 October).

Taebaeksan became a provincial park in 1989 and was upgraded to a national park on 22 August 2016. It sits where the Baekdudaegan, the mountain spine of the Korean Peninsula, turns sharply west after running down the east coast.

What to see

• Cheonjedan: At its centre is Cheonwangdan on the summit, with Janggundan about 300 m to the north and a smaller, unnamed lower altar to the south, all on one straight line. Cheonwangdan is a round altar of natural stones a little over 2 m high. The altars were designated National Folklore Heritage in 1991.
• Main peaks: The highest point, Janggunbong (1,567 m), Yeongbong (1,560 m) with the altar, and Munsubong (1,517 m) to the southeast are joined by a ridge.
• Manggyeongsa and Yongjeong spring: Manggyeongsa temple, said to have been founded by the Silla monk Jajang, lies at 1,460 m. Yongjeong, the spring at its entrance, is known as the highest spring in Korea.
• Yews and azaleas: Ancient yew trees grow along the summit ridge, and in late spring royal azaleas and rhododendrons turn the ridge pink. The mountain is also home to endangered plants and animals.

Hiking routes

Several trails lead to Cheonjedan. The most popular run from the Yuilsa trailhead via Yuilsa temple and Janggunbong, and from Danggol Plaza at the foot of the mountain via Banjae and Manggyeongsa. Another route climbs from Danggol via Munsubong. Because the trailheads already sit at a fair altitude, many hikers find the summit easier to reach than other 1,500 m peaks.

Good to know

• On top of Cheonwangdan there is a square altar of natural stone and a stele inscribed "Hanbaegeom", said to have been erected by followers of Daejonggyo, a religion devoted to Dangun, the legendary founder of Korea.
• Cheonjedan is also where the torch is lit for the annual Gangwon provincial sports festival.

Tripto tips

• When to go: Visit in December to February for snow and rime, or late spring for azaleas. The Taebaeksan Snow Festival is held at Danggol Plaza every winter, and a New Year's Day sunrise hike to the altar is a popular tradition.
• How long: Allow 4–6 hours for a round trip, depending on the route. Check trail opening hours on the Korea National Park Service website.
• Winter gear: The ridge is bitterly windy and the paths are icy, so crampons and warm clothing are essential. Check for trail closures before you set off.
• Combine with: The Taebaek Coal Museum near Danggol Plaza tells the story of Taebaek as a mining town.