Bulyeongsa Temple, Uljin

Deep in a valley of Cheonchuksan in Uljin, at the end of a path through Korean red pines, lies a temple built around a pond. On the ridge west of the temple is a rock shaped like a seated Buddha, and its shadow is said to fall on the pond in front of the temple, which is why it is called Bulyeongsa, "temple of the Buddha's shadow". It is home to a community of Buddhist nuns, who tend a vegetable garden in the courtyard, and the whole temple feels unusually neat and warm.

Built after driving out a dragon

Tradition says Bulyeongsa was founded in 651, in the reign of Queen Jindeok of Silla, by the great monk Uisang. Legend has it that Uisang saw the images of five Buddhas rise above the pond, drove out the dragon that lived in it and built the temple. A fire in 1396 destroyed everything except one hall, and the temple burned again during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s before being rebuilt.

What to see

• The pond: the source of the temple's name. On a clear day, stand at the water's edge and look for the rock on the western ridge and its reflection.
• Daeungbojeon Hall (a national Treasure): inscriptions on its Buddhist painting date the building to 1725. The outside has been repainted, but the decoration on the ceiling, walls and beams inside is considered outstanding. Look for the pair of stone turtles supporting the platform: turtles, forms of the Dragon King of the East Sea, were placed here to suppress the fire energy of the site.
• Eungjinjeon Hall (a national Treasure): a gabled hall housing the Buddha and the Sixteen Arhats, originally called Yeongsanjeon. It is the hall that survived the 1590s fires.
• The three-storey pagoda: standing in front of the main hall, it anchors the view of pond and halls.

Bulyeongsa Valley

The valley leading to the temple has been a national Scenic Site since 1979. Between Geunnam-myeon and the temple, cliffs and strangely shaped rocks follow one another; around 30 of them have their own names. It is also an ecological treasure house, with 560 plant species, including rare ones such as the dwarf rhododendron Rhododendron micranthum and Korean wild thyme.

More to look for

Besides the two halls, Bulyeongsa holds a Yeongsan assembly painting and a palanquin for the Buddha, both designated national Treasures. A cork oak in the grounds is a natural monument, and the stupa near the entrance is also a listed heritage item. A national Treasure, a natural monument and a Scenic Site all in one small temple, so take your time and read the signboards at each hall.

Tripto tips

• The walk in: from the car park by the ticket office, the access road follows the sound of the stream through tall red pines. The walk is a highlight in itself, so take your time.
• Time needed: allow 60–90 minutes for the walk and the temple grounds.
• Best time: autumn, when the valley turns red, and early summer, when the greenery is at its fullest.
• Etiquette: this is a place of practice for the nuns, so keep your voice down and stay out of the vegetable garden and living quarters.
• Getting there: buses from Uljin Intercity Bus Terminal towards Geumgangsong-myeon take a long time, so driving along National Route 36 is much easier.