Tongdosa Temple

Tongdosa sits on the southern slopes of Yeongchuksan in Yangsan, South Gyeongsang, and is known as the "Buddha Jewel Temple" because it enshrines relics of the historical Buddha. That is why its main hall has no Buddha statue: worshippers face the relic platform behind the building instead. With Haeinsa and Songgwangsa it is one of Korea's Three Jewel Temples, and in 2018 it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the "Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries in Korea".

History: relics brought by Master Jajang

The temple is said to have been founded in 646, the 15th year of Queen Seondeok of Silla, by the monk Jajang, who returned from Tang China with relics and a robe of the Buddha and enshrined them in the Diamond Precepts Platform (Geumgang Gyedan). One explanation of the name "Tongdo" is that every would-be monk had to receive the precepts at this platform. Burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, the temple was rebuilt several times from 1601 onwards. An ink inscription found on a rafter dates the current main hall to 1645; together with the precepts platform it is a National Treasure. During the Korean War the temple served as a field hospital for wounded soldiers.

What to see

• Main hall and precepts platform: the hall's roof ridges form an unusual pattern like the character 井. Behind the statue-less altar lies the platform holding the relics.
• Guryongji (Nine Dragon Pond): a small pond beside the main hall. Legend says Jajang drove out nine dragons living in a pond here, but the last one vowed to guard the temple, so part of the pond was left for it.
• Three precincts: passing through the One-Pillar Gate, the Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings and the Gate of Non-Duality, halls grouped into lower, middle and upper precincts line the valley – 65 buildings in all.
• Bongbaltap and Daegwangmyeongjeon: treasures such as the Goryeo-period Bongbaltap stupa in front of Yonghwajeon and the Daegwangmyeongjeon hall are scattered across the grounds.
• Pine path and stone bridge: the pine-lined approach, known as Mupung Hansongno, and an arched stone bridge over the stream set the scene at the entrance.
• Jangdokdae: rows of earthenware sauce jars make a favourite photo spot.

Three gates and old treasures

The One-Pillar Gate is so called because from the side it seems to stand on a single pillar; it marks the boundary between the everyday world and the Buddha's realm. At the Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings you meet the guardians of the four directions, and passing the Gate of Non-Duality symbolises entering a world where Buddha and beings, good and evil, are not divided. The murals of Yeongsanjeon were designated a Treasure in 2011, and a Goryeo-period silver-inlaid incense burner is among the temple's best-known treasures. It is also said that the temple's Dharma lamp has not gone out for more than 1,300 years.

Tripto tips

• Admission: free since 4 May 2023.
• Walk in: leave the car near the entrance and walk the pine path – it is the best way to arrive.
• Getting there: the Tongdosa interchange on the Gyeongbu Expressway is close by, so it is an easy drive from Busan or Ulsan.
• Museum: the Tongdosa Museum on the grounds shows Buddhist paintings and crafts; check opening times before you go.
• Orientation: most halls line up east–west along the valley, but the main hall alone faces south.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours for the main grounds, half a day with the pine path and hermitages.