Unmunsa Temple

In the hills east of Cheongdo, a path through pine woods ends at a temple with a wide courtyard. In the middle stands a great pine whose branches droop to the ground like an umbrella, and nuns in grey robes pass to and fro beneath it. Unmunsa is the largest training centre for Buddhist nuns in Korea.

History: from five temples to a nuns' monastery

The temple traces its founding to 560 CE (the 21st year of King Jinheung of Silla), when a holy monk and his companions built five temples. The central one, Daejakgapsa, is today's Unmunsa. The monk Wongwang restored it in 608; after a rebuilding by the monk Boyang in the Goryeo period, King Taejo (Wang Geon) gave it the name "Unmun Seonsa" in 943, the origin of the present name. Parts burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s and were rebuilt several times in the late Joseon period. The temple also appears in stories in the Samguk Yusa.

After the Buddhist purification movement of the 1950s it became a nuns' temple, and a seminary for nuns opened in 1958. Today the Unmun Sangha University, a graduate school of classical Buddhist texts and a meditation hall make it Korea's largest centre for training nuns, with more than 2,000 graduates.

What to see

• Weeping pine: a rare pine with branches hanging down, designated a Natural Monument in 1966. Admire its rounded shape from outside the low fence.
• Birojeon (the former main hall): the present building is thought to date from a rebuilding around 1718 and is a Treasure. It took its current name after a new main hall was built. The murals of Avalokiteshvara and Bodhidharma inside are Treasures too.
• New main hall (Daeungbojeon): large enough for the whole community of nuns to worship together.
• East and west three-storey pagodas: a matching pair of stone pagodas in front of Birojeon, both Treasures.
• Jagapjeon: a small hall recalling the old name Daejakgapsa and the temple's beginnings. The grounds also hold a seated stone Buddha and four guardian kings carved in stone, all Treasures.
• Obaekjeon: the hall of the Five Hundred Arhats.

Good to know

The hermitage of Sariam is famous across Korea as a place to pray to Nabanjonja (Pindola). It is said that if you climb up and pray three times, one wish will be granted, so a steady stream of pilgrims makes the climb. Services at Unmunsa are held at 04:00, 10:40 and in the evening (18:00 in winter, 18:30 in summer). Many visitors time their trip to hear the chanting of the nuns at the evening service.

Nearby

• Sariam Hermitage: Unmunsa's mountain hermitage. The way up is uphill, so allow plenty of time and energy.
• Yeongnam Alps: the high peaks of south-eastern Gyeongsang, easy to combine with Unmunsa for a hike.
• Samgye-ri Valley: a stream valley near the temple, easy to add to your visit.

Tripto tips

• Admission: the heritage admission fee was abolished on 4 May 2023, so entry is free. Drivers pay for parking.
• Etiquette: this is a working monastery for practice and study. Do not photograph the nuns without permission and keep out of closed areas.
• Getting there: buses run from Daegu Nambu Bus Terminal to Unmunsa roughly hourly from about 07:40 to 19:00, taking 1 hour 20 minutes. There are also 10 buses a day from Cheongdo Intercity Bus Terminal.
• Time needed: 1 hour for the temple grounds, around 2 hours with a walk along the pine path. Autumn foliage season and the evening service are particularly rewarding.