Yongmunsa Temple (Yecheon)

In Yongmun-myeon, Yecheon County, on the southern slopes of Sobaeksan, Yongmunsa is known for its yunjangdae, revolving wooden sutra cases that you turn by hand. Two of them stand side by side inside the Daejangjeon hall, and no other surviving pair is known in Korea or anywhere in East Asia. In recognition of this, the hall and its two cases became a National Treasure in December 2019.

The temple where dragons showed the way

Tradition says Yongmunsa began in 870, the 10th year of King Gyeongmun of Silla, when the monk Duun, back from studying in Tang China, built a hermitage here. The temple's name, "Dragon Gate", comes from a story about Wang Geon, founder of Goryeo. Heading south on campaign, he came to the mouth of the valley to meet Duun but could see nothing for cloud and mist, until two dragons appeared and led the way. With his support the temple was later rebuilt on a larger scale, and it also enjoyed royal protection under Joseon.

On 9 May 1984 a fire destroyed several buildings, including Bogwangmyeongjeon hall, Haeunru pavilion, the monks' school and living quarters. The Daejangjeon escaped. Today the temple holds 12 designated heritage items (19 objects in total), among them one National Treasure and seven Treasures.

Daejangjeon and the revolving sutra cases

The Daejangjeon was founded in 1173, the 3rd year of King Myeongjong of Goryeo, by the monk Joeung, who prayed for the country after the rebellion of Kim Bo-dang. A record written in 1185 states clearly who founded it, when and why, which is very rare for a building of that age. The present structure reflects later repairs in the Joseon period. Of all the sutra halls in Korea, it is the only one that houses revolving sutra cases.

Each yunjangdae is an octagonal wooden cabinet for scriptures, mounted on a central axis so that it can be turned. One stands on the east side of the altar and one on the west, each about 4.2 metres high. One has lattice doors with a diagonal pattern, the other a flower pattern. Turning a case with devotion was believed to earn the same merit as reading the sutras inside, a way of opening the teaching even to people who could not read.

The hall also houses a wooden seated Amitabha triad and a carved wooden altar panel of Amitabha preaching, both designated Treasures.

Royal placenta burials around the temple

Around Yongmunsa are taesil, burial sites for the placentas of royal babies. On a peak near the temple entrance, about 300 metres from the main courtyard, lies the taesil of Deposed Queen Yun, mother of King Yeonsangun. The temple's own records once named it as the burial of Queen Soheon, wife of King Sejong, but the Annals of King Seongjong and the inscribed stone found there showed it belonged to Queen Yun. On the peak behind the Daejangjeon is the taesil of Crown Prince Munhyo, eldest son of King Jeongjo, who was named crown prince in 1784 and died of measles in 1786 at the age of five.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: about an hour for the temple grounds; add half an hour if you want to walk up to the taesil.
• When to go: late October to early November, when the mountainside turns colour, is especially good. Around Buddha's Birthday the temple is busy with worshippers.
• Looking at the sutra cases: from the door of the Daejangjeon, compare the two different lattice patterns. Whether visitors may turn them varies, so ask at the temple office.
• Getting there: the temple is about 11 km north-west of Yecheon town as the crow flies. A few local buses a day pass the temple from Yecheon, but a car is much more convenient.
• Etiquette: avoid taking photos inside the halls and keep quiet during services.