Chungju Mireukdaewon Temple Site

South of Suanbo in Chungju, in a basin below Haneuljae, the old pass between North Chungcheong and North Gyeongsang, lies the Mireukdaewon temple site. A stone Buddha about 10.6 m tall stands inside a grotto built from huge stone blocks, and what makes it special is that the statue and the whole site face north. In Korea, where temples traditionally face south, that is very rare.

A grotto built of stone

The heart of the temple is a man-made stone grotto hall. Walls 9.8 m long, 10.75 m wide and 6 m high were stacked around a pedestal carrying the statue. Niches were cut into the middle of the side and rear walls and carved with small Buddhas, and a wooden building above probably served as the roof. That building has gone, so the Buddha now stands under the open sky, framed by the remaining stone walls. Although built differently, it is seen as an imitation of Seokguram in Gyeongju. Excavations gradually revealed the site's story. Cheongju University's dig in 1977–1978 confirmed that the temple was called Mireukdaewonsa, and an Ewha Womans University survey in 1980 showed that the wooden building over the grotto had burned down, leaving only the stonework. Roof tiles inscribed "Mireukdangcho" date the temple to between late Unified Silla and early Goryeo. The layout had one pagoda and one main hall, and the protected Historic Site covers about 80,000 m².

The legend of Crown Prince Maui

When King Gyeongsun, the last ruler of Silla, prepared to hand his kingdom to Goryeo in 935, the crown prince, later called Maui Taeja, is said to have left in tears for the Geumgangsan mountains. His younger sibling stayed behind on Woraksan, founded Deokjusa Temple and carved a rock Buddha facing south, while the prince built this grotto so that its Buddha faced north towards Deokjusa. The story of the siblings gazing at each other across the mountains is told as the reason for the north-facing layout.

What to see

• Standing stone Buddha (Treasure): the body is built from several stacked stones and topped with a broad, flat stone hat. The face is lighter in colour than the body, so it stands out even from a distance.
• Five-story stone pagoda (Treasure): a tall pagoda in the courtyard, set on one axis with the grotto.
• Stone lanterns: an octagonal lantern and a rare square one survive side by side.
• Three-story pagoda and seated bodhisattva: a smaller three-story pagoda and a bodhisattva seated as if on a chair stand to one side. They are easy to miss next to the great Buddha, so look out for them.
• Turtle pedestal: a giant turtle base carved directly from a natural boulder; the stele itself is gone.
• Inn site: next to the temple are the remains of a won, a lodging for travellers crossing the pass. It lost its role in the Joseon period when the Mungyeong Saejae route opened.

Tripto tips

• Walk Haneuljae: the path leads up to Gyeriphyeong, the old pass that the Samguk Sagi records Silla opening in 156 AD. A forest path runs from beside the temple site up to the pass, an easy add-on to your visit.
• Visiting: the site is open all year round, free of charge, and has a car park. The site alone takes 40 minutes to an hour.
• Best time: at this altitude autumn colour arrives early, and spring greenery is lovely too. Paths can be icy in winter.
• Getting there: about 20 minutes by car from Suanbo hot springs. Buses run only a few times a day, so a car is easiest.
• Combine with: stay overnight in Suanbo, or pair the visit with the rock Buddha of Deokjusa on Woraksan to see both statues from the sibling legend.