Rock-carved Buddhas of Gaheung-dong, Yeongju

On a riverside cliff west of central Yeongju, where the Seocheon stream bends, four Silla-era Buddhas are carved into the rock: a Buddha triad, with a large central Buddha flanked by two bodhisattvas, and a seated Buddha that only came to light when part of the rock collapsed in a storm in 2006. Lower down on the same rock is a much older Bronze Age petroglyph, so this one outcrop carries thousands of years of worship.

The triad: a commanding Buddha and two bodhisattvas

The triad was designated a Treasure in 1963. The central Buddha has a large frame and a round, full face; the big nose and closed mouth give it a look of strong resolve. Heavy robes fall over both shoulders, and the mandorla behind it uses the natural rock, carved with lotus and flame patterns. The lotus pedestal at its feet is in high relief.

The left bodhisattva has a round face and broad chest, its left arm raised over the shoulder and the right resting on the belly. The right bodhisattva is carved in the same manner but wears a crown and holds a water vase in both hands. The group is valued as an example of the realistic style of Unified Silla sculpture.

The fourth Buddha, revealed by a storm

On 28 June 2006 heavy rain brought down part of the rock in front of and to the left of the triad, revealing a previously unknown seated Buddha. It has a jewel-shaped halo carved with lotus petals, a tall cranial protuberance and a plump face. Both hands form the teaching gesture, thumb touching middle finger, and it is an unusually early example of a Buddha shown this way.

Its face, robe and lotus pedestal match the triad, so it is thought to date from about the same time, around 650. Silla Buddhas of this period made outside Gyeongju are known only from the Yeongju and Bonghwa area. The seated Buddha was added to the Treasure listing in 2008, and the site took its current name in 2010.

The petroglyph below

About 10 m below the triad, on the south-facing vertical face of the same rock, is the Gaheung-ri Petroglyph, discovered in 1989 and listed as a provincial heritage site. Within an area 1–1.5 m high and 4.5 m wide are pecked lines and motifs shaped like sword hilts, made with bronze tools. Their meaning is still unknown, but the technique resembles the petroglyphs of Yangjeon-dong in Goryeong and Cheonjeon-ri in Ulsan. The rough granite face is about 4 m high and more than 5 m wide. A place where people once prayed for abundance later became a place of Buddhist devotion.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 20–40 minutes for the Buddhas and the petroglyph.
• Admission: an open-air site, free at any time.
• Getting there: about 1.2 km in a straight line from Yeongju Station on the Jungang Line, a short walk or taxi ride.
• Viewing tip: the seated Buddha sits low on the left, in front of the triad, and is easy to miss. The petroglyph lines are shallow and show up best when the light falls at an angle.
• Combine with: Buseoksa Temple and Sosu Seowon make a full day in Yeongju.