Anmyeondo Island

Two rocky islets sit side by side off the beach, and in the evening the sun goes down behind them. This view from Kkotji Beach on Anmyeondo is counted among the classic sunsets of Korea's west coast. Anmyeondo stretches south from the Taean Peninsula and, at about 113.5 km², is Korea's sixth-largest island. Inside it, pine woods and low hills alternate with a chain of beaches along the west coast.

History: from cape to island

Anmyeondo was once a cape reaching out from the Taean Peninsula. A popular story says the land was cut through under King Injo in the 17th century to open a shipping route for grain collected as tax, but critics point out that the name "Anmyeondo island" already appears in a royal record from 1428, which makes the story doubtful. Whether people dug the channel or the sea wore it away remains unclear. In the Joseon era the island held ranches and farms, and its pines, known as Anmyeon pine, were prized timber for palaces and ships and managed by the state. In 1970 the 208.5 m Anmyeon Bridge linked it to the mainland.

What to see

• Kkotji Beach and the Halmi and Halabi Rocks: the largest beach on the island. The two rocks, "Grandmother" and "Grandfather", were designated a national Scenic Site in 2009. Legend says that when Seungeon, a Silla commander stationed here, failed to return from battle, his wife Mido watched the sea until she turned to stone.
• Anmyeondo Recreational Forest: about 430 ha of natural Anmyeon pine forest, the trees around a century old. A forest exhibition hall explains how timber is produced, and you can stay overnight in forest cabins.
• The beaches: Baeksajang, Sambong, Gijipo, Bangpo, Batgae, Saetbyeol, Baramarae and others line the west coast, along a coast that borders Taeanhaean National Park.

Good to know

The local dish gejukji began when Taean families, who often ate soy-marinated crab, cooked the leftover crab marinade into a stew with kimchi and fresh greens. At the island's southern tip, the Wonsan-Anmyeon Bridge (opened 2019) and the Boryeong Undersea Tunnel (opened 2021) now lead straight on to Boryeong.

Nearby

• Kkotji Coastal Park: created for the 2002 Anmyeondo International Flower Exhibition and later opened as a seaside park, with seasonal gardens and rest areas beside Kkotji Beach.
• Golden rain tree grove: a stand of golden rain trees that flower yellow in summer, protected as a Natural Monument.
• Anmyeondo Arboretum: across the road from the recreational forest, an easy way to extend your walk among the pines.

Tripto tips

• Recreational forest: open 09:00–18:00 from March to October and 09:00–17:00 from November to February, closed on the first Wednesday of each month. Adult admission is listed at KRW 1,500.
• Sunset timing: arrive at Kkotji about 30 minutes before sunset to get a good spot. On clear weekend evenings the beach car parks fill up.
• Time needed: half a day for Kkotji and the forest, a full day if you want to add a few more beaches.
• Getting around: the island is long from north to south, so a car makes it much easier to link the beaches and the forest.