Bogwangsa Temple (Paju)

Bogwangsa, at the foot of Goryeongsan in Gwangtan-myeon, Paju, was the temple that cared for Soryeongwon, the tomb of Lady Choe, mother of King Yeongjo. Royal connections are everywhere: a main-hall name board said to be in Yeongjo's own hand, the Eosilgak shrine holding his mother's memorial tablet, and a juniper over 300 years old in front of it. The painted wooden panels that wrap around the outside of the main hall are something you rarely see at other temples.

A temple rebuilt many times

Bogwangsa is said to have been founded in 894, under Queen Jinseong of Silla, by the monk Doseon on royal orders, as a temple to strengthen the land's energy. It was rebuilt on a large scale in 1215 and 1388 under Goryeo, burned down entirely during the Imjin War and rebuilt in 1622. In 1634 a bell weighing 300 geun was completed; it is now a national Treasure.

The temple's fortunes changed in 1740, the 16th year of Yeongjo's reign, when it became the temple praying for the nearby tomb of Lady Choe at Soryeongwon. The main hall and Gwaneumjeon were repaired and the Manseru pavilion was added. Lady Choe is known to have started out as a lowly palace maid, and her son Yeongjo was famous for the devotion with which he honoured her. The royal ties continued: in 1898 the main hall was repaired again with the support of Lady Eom, a consort of King Gojong, and palace ladies. Some buildings burned during the Korean War but were restored between 1957 and 1973.

What to see

• Daeungbojeon (main hall): a provincial heritage building whose name board is said to be written by Yeongjo. Instead of plastered walls, the outside is clad in wooden boards painted with Buddhist pictures. Walk all the way round to see the paintings on each wall.
• Ceiling paintings: the ceiling inside is covered with paintings too, described variously as celestial maidens and boys playing music, or as flowers, birds and insects.
• Buddhist paintings: three paintings in the hall were designated provincial heritage in 2018, bringing the temple's total of Gyeonggi-designated heritage items to six.
• Eosilgak and the juniper: the small shrine holds Lady Choe's memorial tablet; the juniper in front is said to have been planted by Yeongjo when the shrine was built.
• Calligraphy: besides Yeongjo's writing, the temple also has a name board in the hand of the scholar-calligrapher Kim Jeong-hui (Chusa).

Tripto tips

• Opening: the grounds are open 09:00–17:00, last entry 16:45. There is a car park.
• Name mix-up: another Bogwangsa stands on Cheonmasan in Namyangju and the two are often confused, so search for "파주 보광사" (Paju Bogwangsa) or the Gwangtan-myeon address in your navigation app.
• Time: allow about 1 hour to look properly at the painted panels and the Eosilgak.
• Best time: the wooded slopes are lovely in autumn colour, and in summer the shade by the stream keeps things cool.
• Getting there: the temple sits in a mountain valley in Gwangtan-myeon, Paju, so a car is easiest; it is around an hour's drive from north-western Seoul.
• Combine with: the area around Bogwangsa is a scenic drive of forests, valleys and lakes. For a day trip north-west of Seoul, pair it with the Seosamneung royal tombs in Goyang.