Bukhansan Mountain

Bukhansan is the granite mountain that rings the northern edge of Seoul and the highest mountain in the city. Its top peak, Baegundae (836.5 m), rises next to Insubong (810.5 m) and Mangyeongdae, and the jagged skyline is visible from almost everywhere in town. You can take the subway and start hiking straight away, which makes it a rare example of a national park inside a big city.

History: from Samgaksan to Bukhansan

Bukhansan is a granite mountain formed about 170 million years ago. In the Baekje period it was called Hansan, and today's Insubong was known as Buaak; records say Onjo, the founder of Baekje, and his brother Biryu climbed it. Because Baegundae, Insubong and Mangyeongdae stand together like horns, from the Goryeo period it was called Samgaksan (Three-Horned Mountain). In the Three Kingdoms era the land passed between Baekje, Goguryeo and Silla, and in the 6th century King Jinheung of Silla set up a monument on Bibong peak to mark his inspection of the border. The stone on the peak today is a replica.

In 1711 King Sukjong of Joseon built Bukhansanseong Fortress to guard against invasions. The name Bukhansan, "the mountain north of Hanyang", was used as a nickname from then on and became the official name after the colonial period. The mountain was designated Korea's 15th national park in 1983, and the park covers about 77 km² across Seoul and Gyeonggi Province.

What to see

• Baegundae: on a clear day the summit rock gives views over Seoul and the Han River, and as far as the Kaesong area. The top section is bare rock, so take it slowly.
• Insubong: a huge dome of granite and a gathering place for rock climbers.
• Bukhansanseong Fortress: walk along the ridges past surviving walls and gates such as Daenammun.
• Bibong and Samobawi: a ridge route linking the site of King Jinheung's monument on Bibong with a rock shaped like an official's hat.
• Temples: old temples such as Junghungsa, founded in the Goryeo period, Hwagyesa, Seunggasa and Jingwansa sit on the lower slopes.
• Bukhansan Dulle-gil: a trail around the foot of the mountain opened in 2010, for forest walks without climbing to a summit.

Two faces of one park: Bukhansan and Dobongsan

Bukhansan National Park is split by Uiryeong Pass into the Bukhansan area to the south and the Dobongsan area to the north. It covers parts of Gangbuk, Dobong, Seongbuk, Jongno and Eunpyeong districts in Seoul and of Uijeongbu, Goyang and Yangju in Gyeonggi Province. Surrounded by city on all sides, it acts as a huge green lung for the capital region.

In the Bukhansan area the main ridge runs north to south from Baegundae, out to Sangjangbong in the north and Bohyeonbong in the south. In the middle of the park rises a cluster of rock peaks: Insubong, Baegundae, Mangyeongdae and Nojeokbong (715.5 m). Dozens of clear streams run between them, so this rocky mountain is also rich in water.

Besides Bukhansan, Seoul has seven more mountains over 600 m, including Dobongsan and Suraksan. That is why the city runs hiking tourism centres near Bukhansan, Bugaksan and Gwanaksan, along with hiking programmes for international visitors.

Did you know

• Depending on the source, Bukhansan National Park receives about 5 to 6.5 million visitors a year, which is why it is called the national park with the most visitors per unit of area.
• The mountain's granite formed in the Jurassic period, and long erosion exposed the sharp peaks you see today.
• About 1,300 species of plants and animals live in the park.
• On exceptionally clear days, Daecheongbong on Seoraksan, about 130 km away, is said to be visible from Baegundae.
• Since 2002 there has been a campaign to restore the old name Samgaksan.
• The webtoon PEAK is a fictional story about the mountain rescue team on Bukhansan.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: the quickest way up Baegundae starts near Bukhansan Ui Station on the Ui–Sinseol Line. The Seoul Hiking Tourism Center (Bukhansan) is a 5-minute walk from the station.
• Suggested routes: the centre's Baegundae–Ui Gugok route is about 9.98 km and 4 hours 20 minutes; it is hard but the fastest way to the top. For an easy walk try the Uiryeong-gil trail (6.42 km, about 2 hours), an unpaved road between Bukhansan and Dobongsan that passes old anti-tank barriers and the Obong viewpoint. For historic sites take the Samobawi–Bibong route (6 km, about 3 hours) from the Gugi visitor centre past Seunggasa temple, a rock-carved seated Buddha, Samobawi, Bibong and Geumseonsa down to the Bibong visitor centre.
• Gear rental: the centre lends hiking gear to foreign visitors (and Koreans hiking with them) and has changing rooms and lockers. It is open 09:00–18:00 and closed on Mondays and major holidays.
• When to go: spring azaleas and autumn colours are the best seasons, but the summit area gets very crowded at weekends. Go early on a weekday.
• Good to know: the summit rocks are slippery, so wear boots with firm soles. In winter you will need crampons.