Doseonsa Temple

On the way up to Baegundae, the highest peak of Bukhansan, a temple sits above the Ui-dong valley. Doseonsa stands at about 400 m, the highest temple in Seoul that can be reached by car, and it is the largest temple complex on Bukhansan. A rock-carved Buddha, mountain-temple calm and the trail to Baegundae all start here.

History: Master Doseon's prophecy

According to the temple's records, Doseonsa was founded in 862, under King Gyeongmun of Silla, by the monk Doseon. He is said to have foreseen that this mountain would revive Buddhism a thousand years later, built the temple and split a great rock with his staff to carve a standing image of Avalokiteshvara. None of the original buildings survive.

There are few records until late Joseon, though monk-soldiers are recorded as standing guard here when Bukhansanseong fortress was built. In 1863 the temple was repaired with a donation from Kim Jwa-geun and a Chilseonggak hall was added, and in 1887 Im Jun erected a five-storey pagoda enshrining relics of the Buddha. The temple is twinned with Kongōbu-ji, head temple of Shingon Buddhism on Mount Kōya in Japan.

What to see

• The gate inscription: the stone gate pillars read, in effect, "Three days of cultivating the mind is a treasure for a thousand years; a hundred years of coveting things is dust in a single morning."
• Rock-carved standing Buddha: the image traditionally attributed to Doseon, a Seoul Tangible Cultural Heritage, still visited by a steady stream of worshippers.
• Daeungjeon: the main hall enshrines an Amitabha triad, with portraits of Bodhidharma, Huineng and the monk Cheongdam, an altar painting, scenes of the Buddha's life and a painting of the nine grades of rebirth in paradise.
• Hoguk Chamhoewon and other halls: around the main hall, Hoguk Chamhoewon, Myeongbujeon, Samseonggak, the Heavenly Kings' gate and the bell pavilion climb the slope.
• Heritage: a wooden Amitabha and Mahasthamaprapta, a stone Arhat figure and a bronze bell, all Seoul Tangible Cultural Heritage, plus late-19th-century paintings and sutras.

Nearby

• Bukhansan National Park: Doseonsa lies inside the park, and the Ui-dong valley and the Baegundae trail start from here.
• Tomb of Prince Yeonsan: the grave of Yeonsangun, the tenth Joseon king, is about 1.3 km from Bukhansan Ui Station, an easy stop before or after a hike.
• Dobongsan: the area around Bukhansan Ui Station is also a starting point for hikes on Dobongsan.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: open 09:00–18:00, every day, and free, with parking and toilets. There is no foreign-language guidance. Information: 02-993-3161.
• Getting there: Bukhansan Ui Station (also called Doseonsa Station), the terminus of the Ui-Sinseol Line, is at the entrance to Bukhansan. From there it is a long climb up the mountain road to the temple.
• Hiking: a trail runs from Doseonsa over Baegundae down to the Baegundae visitor centre. Check the weather and sunset time before setting out.
• Etiquette: many worshippers come here to pray. Keep quiet inside the halls and only take photos where it is allowed.
• Time needed: an hour for the temple, a full day with the climb to Baegundae.