Bowonsa Temple Site, Seosan

At the far end of the Yonghyeon Valley, on the northern slopes of Gayasan, a single five-storey stone pagoda stands in the middle of a wide clearing ringed by hills. The Bowonsa Temple Site in Seosan belonged to a monastery that once housed about 1,000 monks, as its Goryeo-era stele records. No buildings survive, only the pagoda, a monk's stupa and its memorial stele, a pair of flagpole supports and a huge stone water basin. The Baekje-era rock-carved Buddha triad at the mouth of the valley is a short walk away, so the two make an easy pair.

History: a great monastery from Baekje to Joseon

Nobody knows exactly when the temple was founded. A gilt-bronze standing Buddha from the Baekje period was found here, which suggests the site may go back that far, but most of the surviving stonework dates from the late Unified Silla to early Goryeo period. Under King Gwangjong of Goryeo, the temple was closely tied to the royal preceptor Tanmun (900–975), known by his posthumous title Beobin Guksa. He became royal tutor in 968 and national preceptor in 974, then returned to Bowonsa, where he died the following year. A geography of 1530 still lists the temple on Sangwangsan, so it survived at least into the 16th century.

The site became a national Historic Site in 1987, and excavations ran from 2006 to 2017. The building platforms and pillar bases are now laid out in the grass, so you can walk the plan of the old monastery.

What to see

• Five-storey pagoda (National Treasure): about 9 m tall. Lions in different poses are carved on the lower base and the eight guardian deities of Buddhism on the upper base, while the thin, wide roof stones follow the style of the old Baekje region. The stele inscription and its style date it to the mid-10th century, which makes it a reference point for dating Goryeo pagodas; it was upgraded from Treasure to National Treasure in December 2025. When it was dismantled for repair in 1968, a reliquary set was found in the fourth storey.
• Stupa and stele of Beobin Guksa (Treasures): these stand side by side at the western edge of the site. The octagonal stupa is carved with lions, dragons in clouds and the Four Heavenly Kings, and the stele erected in 978 is a rare large example that survives complete, from its dragon-headed tortoise base to the dragon capstone.
• Stone water basin (Treasure): a rectangular trough cut from a single block of granite that holds about 4 tonnes of water. Its size alone tells you how big the community was.
• Flagpole supports (Treasure): two stone pillars about 70 cm apart on the eastern side, which once held the pole for a temple banner on festival days.

Where did the Buddhas go?

Most of the Buddha statues found here are now in museums. An iron seated Buddha from Unified Silla and another iron Buddha from Goryeo are in the National Museum of Korea in Seoul, and the Baekje gilt-bronze Buddha is in the Buyeo National Museum. Seeing them first makes the empty site far more meaningful. Walk back down the valley and you pass the rock-carved triad, a reminder that the whole valley was once a major Buddhist centre.

Tripto tips

• Access: there is no ticket office; the site is open all year and free. Enquiries: Seosan Cultural Facilities Office, +82 41-660-2540.
• Time needed: 40–60 minutes for the site alone, about 2 hours with the rock-carved Buddha triad.
• Getting there: city buses towards Unsan/Wonpyeong from Seosan Bus Terminal take 30–40 minutes; services can be infrequent, so check the timetable. From the valley entrance it is about 1 km to the Buddha triad and about 1.5 km to Bowonsa. By car, leave the Seohaean Expressway at Seosan IC and follow Route 32 towards Unsan.
• Best time: spring greenery and autumn colours make the valley walk pleasant. There is almost no shade on the site, so avoid midday in summer.
• Combine with: the rock-carved triad and nearby Haemieupseong Fortress make a full day of Seosan history.