Byeonsanbando National Park

Byeonsanbando National Park is Korea's only peninsula national park, taking in both mountains and sea. Inland, Naebyeonsan has Jikso Falls, rocky peaks and deep valleys; on the coast, Oebyeonsan offers sea cliffs such as Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang and beaches backed by pine woods. Being able to hike a valley and watch the sun set over the Yellow Sea on the same day is what makes it special.

From provincial park to national park

The hills of Byeonsan-myeon in Buan County became a provincial park in December 1971 and were upgraded to Korea's 19th national park on 11 June 1988. Sources give the park's area as roughly 154–157 km², a little over 9 km² of which is sea. Surveys have recorded 996 animal species and 877 species of vascular plants. Most of the inland peaks are only around 500 m high, but the mix of rocky ridges and deep valleys has earned the area a place among Korea's 100 famous mountains. The rock is Mesozoic volcanic stone plus the sedimentary layers around Gyeokpo, which is why the mountains and the coast look so different.

Naebyeonsan: valleys and falls

• Jikso Falls: a column of water about 30 m high dropping straight into a round pool. The path from the Naebyeonsan visitor centre past the lake-like Jikso reservoir is fairly gentle, so many visitors just walk there and back.
• Over Gwaneumbong to Naesosa: the classic traverse runs from Jikso Falls via Jaebaeki junction, Madang Rock and Gwaneumbong peak down to the thousand-year-old Naesosa temple, combining a hike with a temple visit.
• Wolmyeongam and Nakjodae: near the mountain hermitage of Wolmyeongam, the Nakjodae lookout lives up to its name as a place to watch the sun set over the sea.
• Soeppulbawi and Uisangbong: a rock formation shaped like a cow's horn and one of the park's highest peaks show off the rugged side of Naebyeonsan.

Oebyeonsan: the coast

• Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang: along the Gyeokpo coast, sedimentary cliffs look like countless thin slabs stacked on top of each other. At low tide you can walk across the wide rock platforms at their foot.
• Byeonsan and Gosapo beaches: sandy beaches backed by pines, good for swimming in summer and sunset walks the rest of the year.
• Towards Gomso Bay: the south of the park borders Gomso Bay with its broad tidal flats and small harbours.

Tripto tips

• Access: there is no entrance fee and trails are open at all times, but some may close during the spring and autumn forest-fire season or in bad weather. Check the Korea National Park Service website, or call +82-63-582-7808.
• Time needed: allow 2–3 hours for a return walk to Jikso Falls and half a day for the traverse over Gwaneumbong to Naesosa. Add the coast and you need a full day.
• Best season: fresh green in April–May and autumn colour in October–November. Jikso Falls is at its fullest after rain and can be thin in dry spells. Snowy winter scenes at Naesosa are also popular.
• Check the tides: the rock walks at Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang are only possible at low tide, so look at a tide table first.
• Getting there: take an express or intercity bus to Buan, then a local bus from Buan Terminal towards Gyeokpo or Naesosa. Drivers can park at the Naebyeonsan visitor centre.