Seonunsan

At just 336 m Seonunsan is not high, but its cliffs, deep valley and ancient temple make it Gochang's signature mountain. It became a provincial park in 1979, and its volcanic rock formations are part of the Jeonbuk West Coast UNESCO Global Geopark, recognised in 2023. When the red spider lilies bloom in September and the leaves turn in November, the path through Dosol Valley fills with walkers.

Meditating in the clouds

Seonunsan is also known as Dosolsan. "Seonun" means meditating among the clouds, while "Dosol" refers to Tushita, the heaven where the future Buddha Maitreya resides. As Seonunsa temple at its foot grew famous, the mountain came to be known by the temple's name. Legend says that 89 hermitages once stood in its valleys, and several, including Dosoram, Chamdangam and Seoksangam, are still scattered across the slopes.

The rock here is tuff and rhyolite from volcanic activity in the Late Cretaceous, about 86 million years ago. That is why such a low mountain has so many sheer peaks, such as Cheonmabong and Baemaenbawi, and why it is also well known for rock climbing. Dosol Valley, from Seonunsa up to Dosoram, was designated a national Scenic Site in 2009.

What to see along the way

• Dosol Valley: the valley path from Seonunsa to Dosoram hermitage climbs gently and is easy for anyone; in autumn the leaves are reflected in the stream.
• Jinheunggul cave and Jangsasong pine: a cave where, according to legend, King Jinheung of Silla practised meditation. In front stands Jangsasong, a many-stemmed pine protected as a Natural Monument.
• Rock-carved Buddha at Dongburam (Treasure): a huge Goryeo-era seated Buddha carved into the cliff next to Dosoram, more than 15 m tall. Legend held that a secret prophecy hidden in a square niche in its chest would bring down the Joseon dynasty once removed, and that the Donghak leader Son Hwa-jung took it out in 1892.
• Naewongung at Dosoram: a tiny hall perched on top of the rock above the Buddha. Climb the steps for a view down over Dosol Valley.
• Cheonmabong and Nakjodae: rocky viewpoints on the ridge above Dosoram. From Nakjodae (about 335 m) you can watch the sun set over Gomso Bay and the Chilsan sea to the west.

Tripto tips

• Recommended route: from the park office through Dosol Valley and past Nakjodae to Cheonmabong is about 4 km and takes around 2 hours. If you return the same way and take your time at Seonunsa and Dosoram, allow 4–5 hours. The longer ridge loop from the car park via Cheonmabong and Suribong to Maijae is about 9.6 km.
• When to go: the camellia forest behind Seonunsa (a Natural Monument) peaks from late March to April. Red spider lilies line the valley from mid-September to early October, and Dosol Valley's autumn colour is best in early to mid-November.
• Opening hours: the park is open all year; visiting hours are given as 08:00–19:00 in summer and 08:30–17:00 in winter. For questions, contact the Seonunsan Provincial Park office (+82-63-560-8681).
• Getting there: take a rural bus towards Seonunsa from Gochang Intercity Bus Terminal and get off at the last stop. By car it is close to Seonunsan IC on the Seohaean Expressway.
• Watch out for: on weekends in spider-lily and foliage season the car parks fill early, so arrive in the morning. The rocky sections around Cheonmabong get slippery after rain.
• Combine it with: Seonunsa temple and its camellia grove are covered on their own page. After the hike, many visitors try Gochang's local speciality, grilled freshwater eel (pungcheon jangeo).