Suseongdang Shrine (Buan)

Suseongdang is a small tile-roofed shrine on the cliffs of Jeokbyeokgang at the western tip of the Byeonsan Peninsula. It honours Gaeyang Halmi, the sea goddess who rules the West Sea, and her eight daughters, and every year at the first full moon of the lunar new year local people still pray here for good catches and safe voyages. The hill beneath it is the Jukmak-dong archaeological site, where people from Baekje, Gaya, China and Japan held sea rites between the 3rd and 7th centuries, and in spring the slope turns yellow with canola flowers.

Gaeyang Halmi, goddess of the sea

The story goes that Gaeyang Halmi had eight daughters and married one off to each province of Korea, keeping only the youngest with her here. She was believed to measure the depth of the West Sea and watch over it to keep fishermen safe.

The present shrine, a single-bay tiled building, is said to date from 1804, the 4th year of King Sunjo. It was listed as a North Jeolla tangible cultural heritage in 1974. Every year on the first full moon of the lunar year, Gyeokpo village lays out fruit of three colours, rice wine and dried fish and holds a rite for a good catch and safety at sea. Around the shrine you can also see stone cairns built to pray for fishermen.

Jukmak-dong: an ancient sea-ritual site

The hill on which Suseongdang stands overlooks the old sea route linking China and Japan as it rounds the Byeonsan Peninsula. Excavations in 1992 on this narrow clifftop uncovered ritual pottery, metal objects, miniature offerings modelled in clay and stone, and Chinese ceramics. The finds range from Baekje, Gaya and Unified Silla to Joseon, mixed with objects made in ancient China and Japan, and most date from the late 3rd to early 7th century.

Traces show that ritual vessels and goods were buried after the ceremonies, revealing that sailors from several countries prayed here together for safe passage. The site was designated a national Historic Site, Jukmak-dong Site in Buan, in 2017. Having the remains of ancient sea rites and a village ritual that still continues in the same spot is what makes it special.

What to see

• Suseongdang shrine: a small tiled hall among pine trees with the sea at its back.
• Jukmak-dong site: the hilltop is laid out as a broad lawn that you can stroll across.
• Canola hill: in spring the path from Jeokbyeokgang up to Suseongdang is covered in yellow canola, one of Buan's favourite photo spots.
• Sea views: from the edge of the hill you look south over Gyeokpo and the Chaeseokgang coast.
• Jeokbyeokgang: a reddish rocky shore runs below the hill, and a stand of machilus trees protected as a natural monument grows nearby.

Tripto tips

• When to go: spring, when the canola is in bloom, and around sunset are best. Visit at the first full moon of the lunar year and you may see the village rite.
• Time needed: 30 minutes to an hour for the shrine and the site; about 1.5 hours if you also walk the Jeokbyeokgang shore.
• Admission: it is an open-air site with no entrance fee.
• Getting there: the address is 54 Jeokbyeokgang-gil, Byeonsan-myeon, Buan. It is about 1 km north of Chaeseokgang and Gyeokpo Beach, so it is easy to combine the two on foot. From central Buan take a bus towards Gyeokpo, then walk or take a taxi.
• Watch out: the edge of the hill is a sheer cliff, so stay behind the fence when taking photos.