Cheonggyesa Temple

Cheonggyesa is a Jogye Order temple set in the woods on the southern slopes of Cheonggyesan in Uiwang. One family looked after it for nearly 500 years from the Goryeo period, it is where Master Gyeongheo, who revived Korean Seon Buddhism in the modern era, became a monk, and in 2000 it made headlines when udumbara blossoms were reported on a Buddha statue. It is an easy mountain-temple trip from southern Seoul.

A temple kept by one family

The temple is said to date back to Silla. In 1284, under King Chungnyeol of Goryeo, the powerful official Jo In-gyu rebuilt it on a large scale as his family's prayer temple, and his descendants restored it generation after generation. When Prince Yeonsan closed the temples inside the capital in 1503, Cheonggyesa took over from Bongeunsa as the head temple of the Seon school.

After heavy damage in the Japanese invasions and a fire, the monk Seonghui rebuilt it in 1689 and put up the Cheonggyesa history stele. Its inscription records Jo In-gyu's patronage and prayers for the king, and even relations with the Yuan court. In 1761, the future King Jeongjo, then crown grandson, visited, set up a place of prayer for the royal family and granted 3,000 chestnut trees. In 1789 Jeongjo also built a ritual hall here linked to Hyeollyungwon, the tomb of his father Crown Prince Sado, and in 1798 another restoration was funded by Jo Mu-ui, a descendant of Jo In-gyu. The temple was cherished by a Goryeo noble family and the Joseon royal house alike.

In the 19th century Master Gyeongheo (1849–1912), who revived modern Korean Seon Buddhism, entered the monastic life here as a boy. That link still gives Cheonggyesa weight as a place of practice.

What to see

• Bronze bell (Treasure): cast in 1701 by the monk-craftsman Sain in the reign of King Sukjong. It is 115 cm tall with a 71 cm mouth, and the two thick horizontal bands around its waist follow a Chinese style, showing that Sain worked in more than the traditional Silla bell style. Two dragons form the hanging loop at the top; below the shoulder, square frames each hold nine lotus-bud bosses, with standing bodhisattvas carved between them. Eight bells by Sain survive today, including the one at Hwagyesa in Seoul.
• Geungnakbojeon and Mansaeru: climb the steps and pass through Mansaeru pavilion to reach Geungnakbojeon, thought to be a late-Joseon building. The bell pavilion, Samseonggak, Jijangjeon and Gamnoji pond are also in the grounds.
• History steles: near the entrance, the 1689 history stele and the stele for Jo In-gyu's shrine stand side by side, more than 700 years of history recorded in stone.
• Reclining Buddha: a large reclining Buddha made from small pebbles has become the temple's best-known sight.
• Paintings and woodblocks: the temple's woodblocks, a guardian-deity painting, an Amitabha preaching painting, a large hanging Vairocana triad and a seated wooden bodhisattva are all designated by Gyeonggi Province.
• Udumbara photos: the 21 udumbara blossoms reported on the Buddha's eyebrow in October 2000 can now be seen in photographs.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: always open, every day, free admission, with parking. Templestay programmes are available.
• Getting there: about 10 minutes by taxi from Indeogwon Station on Line 4. The final stretch to the temple is a steep mountain road.
• Time needed: 1–1.5 hours for a relaxed look around.
• Combine with: Baegun Lake below the mountain, or the Cheonggyesan hiking trails.
• Seasons: around Buddha's Birthday the courtyard is filled with lanterns, and in autumn the surrounding forest changes colour.