Dadohaehaesang National Park

Dadohaehaesang ("sea of many islands") is South Korea's largest national park, a scatter of islands and open water off the south-western tip of the peninsula in South Jeolla Province. Hundreds of islands, from Hongdo in Sinan to Geumodo and Geomundo off Yeosu, are grouped into eight districts, and most of the park is sea. This is not a single sight but a choice of island trips by ferry, so the first step in planning is deciding which district to visit.

A national park that is mostly sea

The park was designated on 23 December 1981. Sources put its total area at about 2,266 km² or 2,321 km²; either way, around 87% of it is water. Instead of trailheads, the starting points here are ferry terminals.

The eight districts are:

• Heuksan–Hongdo (Sinan): remote islands far out from Mokpo
• Bigeum–Dochodo (Sinan): islands with salt pans and long beaches
• Jodo (Jindo): a tight cluster of small islands
• Soan–Cheongsan (Wando): home to Bogildo and Cheongsando
• Palyeongsan (Goheung): a coastal mountain added from a provincial park in 2011
• Narodo (Goheung)
• Geumodo (Yeosu): known for its cliff-top Bireong trail
• Geomun–Baekdo (Yeosu): isolated islands at the southern edge

Where to start

• Hongdo: named for the way its rocks glow red at sunset ("red island"). The whole island is a natural reserve, so you stay on set paths; most visitors take a boat tour around it to see the sea stacks and caves.
• Heuksando: famous for a mountain road that climbs in twelve hairpin bends and for the viewpoint on Sangnabong peak, which looks out over surrounding islands and fish farms.
• Baekdo: a cluster of rock islets east of Geomundo where landing is not allowed; you see them from the deck of a tour boat.
• Cheongsando and Bogildo: close to Wando and easy to fit into one or two days, with slow walking trails and Yun Seon-do's Joseon-era garden.

Life on the islands and at sea

Surveys have recorded more than 1,500 plant species, over 140 bird species and some 880 insect species here, and orcas have been sighted in the park's waters. Many islands keep forests of evergreen broadleaf trees such as camellia, while tidal flats, salt pans and laver and abalone farms show how islanders make a living. From the ferry you may see haenyeo (women divers) at work and small fishing boats coming and going.

Tripto tips

• Where to catch the ferry: for Heuksando and Hongdo use Mokpo Coastal Passenger Terminal; for Cheongsando and Bogildo go to Wando; for Geumodo and Geomundo leave from Yeosu. Each district has its own port, so focus on one or two rather than trying to cover several.
• Weather decides the schedule: ferries and tour boats are cancelled in strong wind and high seas, more often on the remote routes. Keep a spare day and check sailings the day before.
• Best seasons: May–June and September–October usually bring calmer seas. Midsummer is peak season, so book boats and rooms early.
• Time needed: remote islands such as Hongdo and Heuksando need at least one night; islands near Wando can be done as a day trip.
• Etiquette: stay on marked paths and leave plants and stones on the shore where they are.