Soando Island

Soando, an island in the sea south of Wando, greets arriving boats with a stone reading "Land of resistance, island of liberation". During Japanese rule it produced an unusually large number of independence activists for its size, and it is still known for village streets where houses fly the Korean flag all year round. Even the ferries that serve it are called Daehan, Minguk and Manse, words from the independence cry "Long live the Republic of Korea".

Early days

People settled on Soando in the mid-16th century, when the Gimhae Kim and Dongbok Oh clans first moved to Wolhang, joined later by families fleeing the Imjin War. Back then the island was called Dalmokdo. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty describe it as a hiding place for criminals and runaways and as a frequent target of Japanese pirates. In 2013 it had about 2,860 residents, 1,059 of them aged over 65.

An island of resistance

The first spark came in 1909, when six men led by Yi Jun-ha, a former Donghak fighter, attacked the lighthouse the Japanese had built on neighbouring Dangsado; this raid is seen as the start of Soando's anti-Japanese movement. The islanders' struggle also became a fight for their land. In 1905 the island's land passed to the pro-Japanese aristocrat Yi Ki-yong; the islanders sued in 1909 and finally won in 1922. Meanwhile the private Junghwa Academy, founded in 1913 by Song Nae-ho and others, grew after the court victory into the Soan Private School, funded by islanders' donations, and it trained many independence activists. In the 1920s about 800 of the island's roughly 2,000 residents were reportedly branded "disloyal Koreans" and kept under surveillance. Soando counts 88 independence activists, 20 of whom have been posthumously decorated by the state.

What to see

• Soan Anti-Japanese Movement Memorial Hall: tells the story of the island's independence movement and the people behind it. Make it your first stop.
• Independence movement monument: an 8 m tower built in 1990 with islanders' donations, stacked from pebbles taken from the shore at Bija-ri. The black stones stand for Japanese oppression, the white ones for the Korean people.
• Mira-ri evergreen forest: a natural monument stretching about 400 m along the shore, with 24 species including Japanese chinquapin, machilus and camellia. The beach in front is covered in smooth, round pebbles, and a boardwalk runs along the edge of the trees.
• Maengseon-ri evergreen forest: another natural monument, a strip of woodland about 300 m long on a coastal rise, planted as a windbreak that has sheltered the village for generations.

Shape of the island

Soando covers about 23 km². Daebongsan in the north and Gahaksan (359 m) in the south form its backbone, joined by a strip of land less than 5 m above sea level where the township office stands. Where the rocky hills meet the sea there are mostly steep cliffs, while the north coast has mudflats and salt pans. The whole island lies within Dadohaehaesang National Park.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: ferries to Soando leave several times a day from Hwaheungpo Port, west of Wando town. The crossing takes 45 minutes to just over an hour depending on the boat, and cars can come too. Be at the terminal 30 minutes before departure, and check on the day, as sailings can be cancelled in bad weather.
• Getting around: the island is small enough to see the main sights by car or bicycle in half a day. Without a car, check the local bus times in advance.
• Best time: the evergreen forests stay green all year; spring and autumn are most comfortable for coastal walks, and in summer the pebble beaches are good for a rest.
• Time: plan a full day from Wando including the ferries. To see the memorial hall, both forests and the monument without rushing, allow 4–5 hours on the island.
• Combine with: neighbouring Bogildo, home to Yun Seon-do's garden, is also reached by ferry from Hwaheungpo.