Dongpirang Village (Tongyeong)

Behind Jungang Market, Tongyeong's best-known fish market, small houses cling to the hillside: this is Dongpirang. It was nearly lost to redevelopment, but murals painted on its walls drew visitors, public opinion swung behind saving it, and today hardly anyone visits Tongyeong without climbing its lanes. Follow the winding alleys up and Gangguan harbour opens out below you.

Name and history: the village on the eastern slope

Dongpirang combines "dong", meaning east, with "birang", Tongyeong dialect for a slope. The top of the hill was the site of Dongporu, an eastern gun tower of the Joseon-era naval headquarters of the three southern provinces, and the city planned to clear the village, restore the tower and lay out a park.

In October 2007 the civic group Blue Tongyeong 21 held a national mural contest called "Painting Dongpirang". Art students and individuals from around the country, 18 teams in all, painted the shabby walls; as more people came to see the murals, calls to preserve the village grew louder. In the end only three houses at the very top were removed to rebuild Dongporu, and the demolition plan was dropped. Mural festivals have refreshed the paintings ever since, and in 2014 the village was certified as an official Education for Sustainable Development project by the Korean National Commission for UNESCO as a model of sustainable development.

When the mural project began, the village was home to some 80 households and 120 people. A mural festival held every two years has repainted the walls since then, together with village feasts and traditional events. Its closeness to Jungang Market, Sebyeonggwan Hall and Yi Sun-sin Park has made it the hub of a walk around central Tongyeong, and it was chosen as the city's signature night-time attraction in a national night-tourism programme.

What to see

• The alleys: dozens of lanes criss-cross Dongpirang. Whichever way you climb, there are paintings on walls, steps and houses, and they change from time to time.
• Dongporu: the restored pavilion at the top of the village, with views over Gangguan, central Tongyeong and the hill opposite.
• Gangguan views: open spots along the lanes look down on boats coming and going in the harbour. Sunset is especially good.
• Jungang Market and the waterfront: below the village, the harbourside is lined with the market, restaurants and shops.

There are plenty of restaurants and shops along the Gangguan waterfront below, and a small grocery on the hill path. From the front of Dongporu, looking towards Gangguan, the harbour and town fit into a single frame, ideal for photos.

Visitor etiquette

Before it is a sight, Dongpirang is a place where people live. Please don't peer into homes or step through gates, and keep your voice down in the early morning and evening.

Tripto tips

• Access: the village is always open and free.
• Time needed: about 1 hour to wander the lanes and climb to Dongporu.
• Walking: the slopes are steep with many steps. Wear comfortable shoes; a baby carrier works better than a pushchair.
• Combine with: come down to Jungang Market to browse the seafood, then walk across Gangguan to Seopirang Village on the other side.