Bijindo Island

Bijindo is an island in the Hallyeosudo waterway, a little over 40 minutes by ferry from Tongyeong, made of two islands joined by a narrow sandbar. The beach along the sandbar has fine sand on one side and smooth pebbles on the other, so from the same spot you can watch both sunrise and sunset. Climb the Sanho-gil trail along the southern ridge and the islands of Hallyeohaesang National Park unfold in layer after layer.

An island to rival a treasure

The name Bijindo (比珍島) is usually explained as "an island to compare with a treasure". It is shaped like a figure eight: Anseom (the inner island) to the north and Bakkatseom (the outer island) to the south, two islands of similar size linked by a sandbar that forms the island's waist and its beach. There are two harbours, Naehang on the inner island and Oehang on the outer one. The whole island covers only about 2.8 km²; residents live from fish farming, fishing and summer tourism. Bijindo lies within Hallyeohaesang National Park.

Sand on one side, pebbles on the other

In front of Oehang village the sandbar carries a beach about 550 m long. The west side is white sand and the east side round pebbles, so the sound underfoot changes as you cross. The water is clear enough that the beach is officially called the "coral-coloured" beach. In the morning the sun rises over the pebbles to the east; in the evening it sets beyond the sand to the west.

Sanho-gil and the Miin Viewpoint

The Bijindo Sanho-gil trail around the outer island starts near the Oehang pier. Sources give its length as 4.1–4.8 km, and despite the gentle name the first 40 minutes or so are a stiff climb. At the top, the Miin (Beauty) Viewpoint looks down on the island's narrow sandbar waist with Hansando and a scatter of islands beyond. Many walkers continue to Seonyubong (313 m), the island's highest point. Along the coast, cliffs have been carved by wind and waves.

Bijindo also has a native grove of fatsia (paldsonnamu), an evergreen with huge hand-shaped leaves; the grove is protected as a Natural Monument. Camellia woods grow around the island and flower red at the end of winter.

Hallyeosudo and the Badabaengni-gil trails

The water around Bijindo is part of Hallyeosudo, the sea lane running from Hansando in Tongyeong to Yeosu. Islands follow one after another, so from any high point you see them stacked in layers. The Korea National Park Service groups the walking trails on Tongyeong's islands as the Badabaengni-gil ("hundred-li sea trail"), and the Bijindo Sanho-gil is one of them. Villages cluster mostly on the north-west of the inner island, and their quiet fishing lanes are pleasant to wander.

Tripto tips

• Ferries: Hansol Shipping runs boats from Tongyeong Port Passenger Terminal, taking about 40 minutes. There are more sailings at weekends and on holidays than on weekdays, and timetables change with the season, so check departure times and the last boat back before you go.
• Where to get off: for the beach and Sanho-gil, Oehang pier is closer.
• Time needed: half a day to a full day to enjoy both the beach and the trail. There are no buses on the island; everything is on foot.
• Best seasons: summer for swimming; April–June and September–November for walking and clear water. Camellias bloom towards the end of winter.
• What to bring: shops are few, so carry water and snacks, and wear trainers for the climb on Sanho-gil.