Hansando Island

About 25 minutes by boat from Tongyeong harbour lies the island where Admiral Yi Sun-sin kept his headquarters: Hansando. The Battle of Hansan Island fought offshore in 1592 is counted among the turning points of the Imjin War, and Jeseungdang on the island marks the spot where Yi planned operations with his officers. A day here combines a key site of Korean history with the seascapes of Hallyeohaesang National Park.

History: the crane-wing formation and the naval command

On the 8th day of the 7th lunar month of 1592, the Joseon navy routed the Japanese fleet off Hansando. Yi Sun-sin used the hagikjin or "crane-wing" formation, an encircling tactic from land warfare, at sea for the first time. After the battle he moved his base to this island, ideally placed to watch the Gyeonnaeryang Strait, and in 1593 Hansando became the seat of the first Samdo Sugun Tongjeyeong, the joint naval command of three provinces.

In 1597 Admiral Won Gyun's crushing defeat at Chilcheollyang left the base exposed and it was burned. More than 140 years later, naval commander Jo Gyeong rebuilt the hall on the old site and hung a sign reading Jeseungdang, "the place where victory is made" (sources differ: 1739 or 1740).

What to see

• Jeseungdang: Yi's office and war-council hall.
• Suru: a lookout tower over the bay, linked to Yi's famous poem about a moonlit night on Hansan Island.
• Chungmusa: the shrine holding Yi's portrait.
• Hansanjeong: an archery range designed so that arrows fly across the water to the targets.
• Victory monument and turtle lighthouse: a lighthouse shaped like a turtle ship stands in the bay, easy to spot from the ferry.
• Mangsan: the island's highest peak at about 293 m, with views over the islands between Tongyeong and Geoje.

Good to know

• With an area of about 14.8 km², Hansando is the largest of the 29 islands of Hansan-myeon. Since 2007 the Chubong Bridge has linked it to neighbouring Chubongdo.
• Place names in the north still recall the war, such as Daeseom, which supplied bamboo for arrows, and Manggol, where lookouts watched for the enemy.
• The Jeseungdang historic site covers about 600,000 m² with 28 buildings. The deep inlet of Hansan Bay on the island's northwest made a well-hidden anchorage.
• Hansando also marks the starting point of Hallyeohaesang National Park. Most of its coast is rocky, with cliffs and striking rock formations.

Nearby

• Geojedo: a car ferry from Jeogu port on Geoje runs via Chubongdo, so you can combine both islands.
• Central Tongyeong: Gangguan harbour and Jungang Market are close to the ferry terminal, handy before or after your boat.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: ferries to Jeseungdang leave from Tongyeong Ferry Terminal. Timetables change with season and weather, so check before you set out.
• Visiting: the Jeseungdang site is open 09:00–18:00 and admission is free.
• Time needed: 2–3 hours for the walk from the pier along the shore and the historic site; half a day or more if you add the Mangsan hike.
• Watch out: boats can be cancelled in bad weather. Note the time of the last ferry back.