Geomundo Island

Three small islands stand around a stretch of sea like a folding screen. The water inside is deep and calm enough for large ships, and that natural harbour drew the attention of the great powers in the 19th century. The Royal Navy called it Port Hamilton and occupied it for nearly two years. Today Geomundo is a quiet fishing community inside Dadohaehaesang National Park, but a walk across the islands takes you past traces of that period and the first lighthouse on Korea's south coast.

History: two years under the Royal Navy

Geomundo consists of three islands, Godo, Seodo and Dongdo, and was once simply called Samdo, "three islands". In April 1885 Britain sent warships to occupy them, officially to block Russian expansion, and did not withdraw until February 1887; Koreans call this the Geomundo Incident. One story says the name Geomun, "great writing", was given by the Chinese admiral Ding Ruchang, who visited at the time and was impressed by the islanders' written Chinese. Another traces it to a native Korean word for "dark", after the dense forest. After the British left, Japan developed the islands as a fishing base. The harbour, military and fisheries structures from those decades were registered in 2024 as the Geomundo Modern History and Culture Space.

What to see

• British Cemetery: on a hillside on Godo lie the graves of British sailors who died during the occupation. A 15-minute climb above the cemetery brings you to a good sunrise spot.
• Geomundo Lighthouse: first lit on 12 April 1905, it was the first lighthouse on the south coast. The original 6.4 m tower, used for a century, is preserved, and since 2006 a new 33 m tower beside it has guided ships. From Gwanbaekjeong, a pavilion at the cliff edge, you can see out towards Baekdo on clear days.
• Camellia path on Suwolsan: past a narrow neck of land that waves wash over, a 1.2 km woodland trail leads to the lighthouse. Around 70% of the trees on this side are camellias. The area was designated a national Scenic Site in 2025.
• Geomun Bridge and Samho Bridge: Samho Bridge linked Godo and Seodo in 1991, and the 560 m Geomun Bridge joined Seodo and Dongdo in 2015, connecting all three islands.

Good to know

Further east lies Baekdo, a group of uninhabited rocky islets split into Sangbaekdo and Habaekdo and known for shapes carved by wind and waves, which earned them the name "Little Geumgang of the South Sea". The waters around Geomundo are popular for rock fishing, and the Geomundo boat song, a fishermen's work song, is listed as intangible heritage of South Jeolla.

Why "Port Hamilton"

The British name dates from 1845, when the naval officer Edward Belcher surveyed the islands in HMS Samarang and named the harbour after Captain W. A. B. Hamilton, then Secretary of the Admiralty. The Russian admiral Putyatin also called here several times and in 1857 obtained permission for a coal depot, though the plan came to nothing. During the occupation the British put up buildings and defences and arranged a telegraph cable link towards Shanghai. They are also said to have introduced pheasants to the islands.

Nearby

• Yurim Beach: the beach on Seodo that you pass after crossing Samho Bridge on the way to the lighthouse. In summer people come to swim and fish from the rocks.
• Baekdo: the uninhabited rocky islets in the sea east of Geomundo, nicknamed "Little Geumgang of the South Sea" for their strange shapes.
• Yeosu: back on the mainland, the area around the coastal ferry terminal is a natural starting point for exploring the city of Yeosu.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: ferries to Geomundo leave from Yeosu Coastal Passenger Terminal. Timetables and cancellations depend on the weather, so check before you travel, and bring ID, which is required for boarding.
• Time needed: walking from the ferry pier at Geomun-ri to the lighthouse takes a little over an hour. Staying one night makes the trip far more relaxed.
• When to go: the lighthouse path is at its reddest from late winter to early spring, when the camellias bloom. In summer many visitors combine the beach with fishing.
• Sunset: the pier on the right-hand side of Geomun Harbour looks out at the sun setting between Dongdo and Seodo.