Geumtapsa Temple

On the eastern slope of Cheondeungsan in Goheung, this small temple sits deep in a forest of more than 3,300 Japanese nutmeg trees (Torreya). It is a quiet community of Buddhist nuns, and it combines a nutmeg forest protected as a Natural Monument, a late-Joseon worship hall and a hanging Buddhist painting from 1778 listed as a national Treasure. It is not far from Goheung town, yet once you are on the forest path it feels a world away.

Where the golden pagoda stood

According to temple tradition, it was founded by the monk Wonhyo during the reign of King Munmu of Silla (661–681) and named Geumtapsa, "Golden Pagoda Temple", after a golden pagoda that stood here when it was built. It burned down during the Japanese invasion of 1597 and was rebuilt in 1604, and at one time several hundred monks are said to have lived here. After a natural disaster left the buildings leaning in 1845, the temple was repaired or rebuilt the following year.

The main hall, Geungnakjeon, is dedicated to Amitabha Buddha and measures three bays by three. Its hipped-and-gabled roof is carried on clusters of brackets set not only on the columns but also between them, a typical feature of late-Joseon architecture. It was listed as South Jeolla provincial heritage in 1985.

The nutmeg forest

The main reason to come is the forest that wraps around the temple. Japanese nutmeg is an evergreen conifer that grows only in Korea's warm south, below Naejangsan, with flat, sharply pointed needles. The forest is a protected Natural Monument, but sources differ on when it was planted: some link it to the founding of the temple in the 7th century, others estimate the 18th century. The trees older than 300 years have reached 9–14 m in height and more than 1 m in girth. Nutmeg grows so slowly that a trunk is said to need about a century to thicken by a hand's breadth, which is what makes a forest of this size so rare. Its seeds were used in traditional medicine and pressed for oil. Behind the temple, centuries-old camellias grow among the nutmeg trees.

What to see

• The nutmeg forest path: the road from Bongnim-ri turns into a forest path almost at once, shaded also by old Chinese elm and cork oak trees.
• Geungnakjeon: take a close look at the bracket clusters and painted decoration under the eaves.
• Hanging painting (Treasure): painted in 1778 by the monk-painters Bihyeon and Kwaeyun, it divides an unusually wide canvas, about 6.5 m across and 5 m high, into three parts, each with a large Buddha of the past, present and future. The round faces with small features and the square shoulders are typical of Buddhist painting in the late 18th century. Its storage chest is older still, made in 1697. It is hung outdoors only for major ceremonies, so you are unlikely to see it on an ordinary day.
• Jar terrace and stone walls: the neat terrace of soy and paste jars and the tidy walls kept by the nuns say a lot about the place.

Tripto tips

• Etiquette: this is a working nunnery, so keep your voice down, do not fly drones and stay out of the living quarters.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour for the forest path and the temple.
• When to go: the evergreen forest looks good all year. In summer it gives deep shade, and in late winter and early spring the camellias behind the temple are in flower.
• Getting there: the temple lies a little over 8 km south of Goheung town; drive through Bongnim-ri in Podu-myeon and follow the signs to Geumtapsa. Buses do not reach the temple gate, so a car or taxi is the practical choice.