Somaemuldo Island

Out at sea 26 km south-east of Tongyeong harbour lies Somaemuldo, an island of just 0.51 km². What made it famous is its tiny neighbour, Deungdaeseom ("Lighthouse Island"). Twice a day, when the tide goes out, a 70-metre pebble causeway appears between the two, and you can walk across to the foot of the white lighthouse.

An island built of rock

Somaemuldo belongs administratively to Hansan-myeon in Tongyeong, but it actually lies closer to Geojedo and sits within the Geoje section of Hallyeohaesang National Park. The whole island is made of granite porphyry, a rock that splits along vertical joints, which is why its sea cliffs look as if they were cut with a knife. Mangtaebong, the highest point in the middle of the island, rises to 152 m, and the coastline is 3.8 km long. Its namesake neighbour, Maemuldo, lies just to the north-east.

Deungdaeseom, with its sheer cliffs, wave-cut sea caves, grassy slopes and white lighthouse, was designated a national Scenic Site as "Somaemuldo Deungdaeseom" in 2006. Rock split by horizontal and vertical joints creates an almost geometric landscape, with wave-cut cliffs and caves all around, and the island is counted among the "Eight Views of Tongyeong".

What to see

• Yeolmokgae sea path: the causeway of round pebbles linking the main island with Deungdaeseom. It only appears at low tide.
• Mangtaebong: the summit, with the classic view down onto Lighthouse Island.
• Named rocks: Dragon Rock, Buddha Rock, Turtle Rock, Candle Rock, Brother-and-Sister Rock and Dinosaur Rock, plus sea caves such as Geulssingigul, line the coast. Seen from Deungdaeseom, the rocky ridge of the main island is said to look like a sitting dinosaur.
• Somaemuldo village: a small cluster of guesthouses above the ferry landing.

Good to know

After a commercial for the biscuit "Couque d'Asse" was filmed on Deungdaeseom in 1986, Somaemuldo picked up the nickname "Couque d'Asse Island", which is still used today. Sea winds keep tall trees off the lighthouse island, so grass and low shrubs cover it, creating the unusual picture of a white lighthouse on a green hill.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: ferries to Somaemuldo leave from Tongyeong Port Ferry Terminal and from Jeogu Port on Geojedo. The crossing from Tongyeong takes around 1 hour 30 minutes, and timetables vary between weekdays, weekends and seasons. Sailings are cancelled in bad weather, so always check before you go. Tongyeong Port Ferry Terminal can be reached on 1666-0960.
• Check the tides: the Yeolmokgae path opens twice a day. Look up the tide table of the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency before you pick a ferry, so that your visit coincides with low tide.
• On the island: there are no buses or taxis, and most of the island is steep trail with many steps. Wear trainers and bring water. There is no admission fee.
• Time needed: to cross Mangtaebong and reach Lighthouse Island, allow at least 3–4 hours between ferries.