Hwayang Gugok Valley, Goesan

North of Songnisan National Park, in Cheongcheon-myeon, Goesan, Hwayang Gugok is a valley where clear water runs over broad white rock. Nine scenic bends follow one another upstream, each with its own name, and spotting the characters carved into the rocks is part of the fun. The valley was designated a national Scenic Site in 2014.

History: the valley of Song Si-yeol

Hwayang Gugok is where the great late-Joseon scholar Song Si-yeol (1607–1689, pen name Uam) lived after leaving politics, studying and teaching his students. After his death his disciple Gwon Sang-ha named the nine bends after the Wuyi Jiuqu ("Nine Bends of Wuyi") associated with the Chinese philosopher Zhu Xi, and Min Jin-won is said to have carved the names into the rock. The valley is made of light-coloured granite formed in the Cretaceous period, which is why the rocks look so white. The same granite continues to Domyeongsan and the northern part of Songnisan.

The nine bends

1. Gyeongcheonbyeok: a sheer cliff that seems to hold up the sky.
2. Unyeongdam: a clear pool that reflects passing clouds.
3. Eupgungam: a rock pitted with round holes, where Song Si-yeol is said to have knelt and wept every dawn after the death of his former pupil, King Hyojong.
4. Geumsadam: a pool whose sandy bed glitters like gold dust, surrounded by sites linked to Song.
5. Cheomseongdae: stacked flat boulders from whose top, it is said, you could watch the stars.
6. Neungundae: a rock rising high enough to pierce the clouds.
7. Waryongam: a rock shaped like a reclining, writhing dragon.
8. Haksodae: a rock where cranes are said to have nested.
9. Pagot (Pacheon): a wide spread of white rock over which the water ripples like dragon scales. Names carved by visitors centuries ago cover the rock.

What to see

On a rock across from Geumsadam, the fourth bend, stands Amseojae, the study Song Si-yeol built in 1666. This small tiled house of two rooms and a wooden floor, perched on a boulder above the water, is the best-loved view in the valley. The site covers only about 65 m², five name boards hang inside, and a small gate stands between the rocks. Song's descendants repaired it at the end of the Japanese occupation, and it was restored again in 1970. Nearby, Hwayang Seowon academy and the Mandongmyo shrine, both closely linked to Song, have been restored, and his calligraphy, including the motto "do not act against propriety", is still carved in the rocks.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: always open, free admission. For information, contact the Hwayang-dong office of Songnisan National Park (043-832-4347).
• Parking: the Hwayang Valley car park costs KRW 2,000 for compact cars and KRW 5,000 for mid-size and small cars.
• How to explore: it is about 3 km from Gyeongcheonbyeok (1st bend) to Pagot (9th bend). The path beside the stream is mostly flat and has rest areas along the way. The road is one-way for cars, so drivers must go upstream from the first bend to the ninth.
• When to go: summer, for a paddle, and autumn foliage season are best. Allow 2–3 hours to walk to the ninth bend and back.