Muryongsan (Ulsan)

Rising on the border of Ulsan's Buk and Dong districts, Muryongsan (452 m) has long been regarded as Ulsan's guardian mountain. It is not high, but the summit takes in the East Sea, the city and its vast industrial complex, and at night it is known for the sea of factory lights below. Giant dish antennas near the top tell a chapter in the history of Korea's international phone calls.

The mountain of the dancing dragon

The name means "dancing dragon". Legend says seven dragons lived in a pond on the summit; when they rose to heaven with a group of fairies, one blind dragon was left behind. A kind-hearted fairy stayed with it until all of them finally ascended, and the pond disappeared. Another belief held that a secret grave on the mountain would stop the rain over Ulsan. During a severe drought in 1924, villagers went looking for hidden graves and dug them up, which led to fights with the families.

A pass against pirates

Yupo, the shore below the mountain, is said to be where the Silla envoy Bak Je-sang set sail for Japan in 418. In the Joseon period, Japanese pirates from Tsushima would land here and slip into Ulsan over the Muryongsan pass, so in 1459 the Yupo stone fort was built and garrisoned to close the route. Its remains survive in Panji village, Gangdong-dong.

Where international calls crossed the sea

In 1968 the government built a 19 m scatter-communication antenna here, at the point closest to Hamada in Japan (about 270 km). Until the Korea–Japan submarine cable opened in 1980, the Muryongsan relay station was Korea's only gateway for international calls; the hugely popular 1970s pro-wrestling bouts between Kim Il and Antonio Inoki reached Korean TV screens through it. It closed in 1991 and was listed as a historic site of Korea Telecom, and large dish antennas still stand near the summit.

The view from the top

To the east you see Jeongja beach and the East Sea horizon; to the west and south lie the city, the port and the petrochemical complex. The night view was once named one of Ulsan's Twelve Scenic Views, and in autumn silver grass covers the summit ridge. Several transmitter towers stand on the top, so for photos frame the grass and the sea.

As a city mountain it is laced with trails, with springs and rest spots along the way, and locals climb it morning and evening. The popular song "Ulsan Arirang" even opens by calling out to Muryongsan, a sign of how closely the mountain is tied to the city's identity.

Tripto tips

• Route: there are many trails; the gentle climb from Hwadong Pond (Hwadong Reservoir) in Hwabong-dong, Buk District, is the most popular. Descending along the northern ridge is easier.
• Time needed: allow two to three hours for the round trip, depending on the route. The forest road near the top is also popular with mountain bikers.
• Night hikes: many people climb at sunset, watch the lights come on and walk down. Bring a head torch and a windproof layer, and go with company rather than alone.
• Best time: October–November for the silver grass, or clear winter mornings when the East Sea is sharp. No entry fee.
• Combine it with: the pebble beaches of the Gangdong coast, Jeongja Port and the Jangsaengpo Whale Museum are all within about 30 minutes by car.