Nogodan

At the western end of Jirisan, 1,507 m Nogodan is the easiest of the range's high peaks to reach. Drive up to Seongsamjae pass at about 1,100 m and an hour or two on foot brings you onto a broad upland. It is counted with Cheonwangbong and Banyabong as one of Jirisan's three great peaks, and below it the Seomjingang River winds through seas of cloud.

An altar to the mountain grandmother

"Nogo" means "old grandmother", a reference to Mago Halmi, the guardian goddess of Jirisan. Tradition holds that an altar stood on this upland from the Silla period, where rites were offered to the mountain spirit, hence the name Nogodan, "the grandmother's altar". The grassland on top was badly damaged when it was used as a campsite and for other purposes, and it has recovered only after access was restricted and the ground restored. Jirisan became Korea's first national park in 1967.

What you see up there

• The summit and its stone cairn: from Nogodan Pass, boardwalks and earth paths lead to the summit, crowned by a stone cairn. On a clear day you can follow the main ridge all the way to Banyabong and Cheonwangbong.
• The sea of clouds: the cloud sea that settles below Nogodan is counted among the "Ten Views of Jirisan". Your best chance is at dawn or the morning after rain.
• Seasons on the plateau: pink spring blossoms colour the ridge in late spring, and silver grass turns gold in autumn. The Seomjingang River and the town of Gurye lie at your feet.
• Start of the ridge traverse: the classic traverse of Jirisan's main ridge to Cheonwangbong usually begins here, and there is a mountain shelter at Nogodan.

The Nogodan area is a protected habitat for wildlife, including the Asiatic black bear. The summit grassland has come back only after long restoration, so the most important rule here is to stay on the boardwalks and marked paths.

Tripto tips

• Reservation required: the roughly 500 m stretch (about 30 minutes each way) from Nogodan Pass to the summit is covered by the Korea National Park Service trail reservation system. Daily numbers are capped and autumn weekends book out early, so reserve on the national park reservation website in advance. Your booking is checked at the visitor support post on Nogodan Pass before you continue to the summit.
• Time needed: from Seongsamjae there is a steep stone-stair shortcut and a gentler path. Allow a good hour to Nogodan Pass and 3–4 hours for the full round trip including the summit. There is also a trail up from Hwaeomsa Temple in Gurye, but it is much longer and steeper.
• Best time: May for the spring blossoms and October for the silver grass. For sunrise and the cloud sea you need to set out before dawn. Trail entry hours are set by season, so check before you go.
• Getting there: drivers use the paid car park at Seongsamjae rest area, which fills early on autumn weekends. By public transport, intercity buses run from Seoul Nambu Terminal to Gurye Public Bus Terminal in about 4 hours; from Gurye take a county bus or a taxi up to Seongsamjae. County bus timetables change with the season, so check them in advance.
• Watch out for: the top is windy and cold. Bring an extra layer even in midsummer, and note that some trails close during the spring and autumn wildfire-prevention periods.