Ssanggyesa Temple

Ssanggyesa sits on the southern foothills of Jirisan, in Hwagae-myeon, Hadong County, at the spot where two mountain streams meet. It was founded in 722, and in its courtyard still stands a stele composed and written by Choe Chi-won, the most celebrated writer of the Unified Silla period. The temple is worth the trip on its own, but if you follow the forest path behind it up to Buril Falls, you will understand why old scholars came here to write poems.

History: from Okcheonsa to Ssanggyesa

The temple was built in 722 (21st year of King Seongdeok of Silla) by Daebi and Sambeop, disciples of the great monk Uisang, and was first called Okcheonsa. According to legend, the two monks were told in a dream to look for a valley where arrowroot flowers bloomed through the snow, and a tiger guided them here. In the 9th century Master Jingam (774–850), back from Tang China, revived the temple. He is credited with introducing beompae, Korean Buddhist chant, and spreading it widely. Later a king renamed the temple Ssanggyesa, "Twin Streams Temple", after the two valleys that meet here. The temple burned during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, and the main buildings you see today were rebuilt in 1632 by Master Byeogam.

What to see

• Stele for Master Jingam (National Treasure): It rests on a turtle-shaped base and is crowned with dragons fighting over a pearl. Choe Chi-won wrote both the text and the calligraphy, which is admired for its lively brushwork. Sources differ on the year it was set up: 887 or 888. The main stone is cracked in several places, so take a close look at its condition.
• Daeungjeon Hall (Treasure): The main hall, rebuilt around 1632, is five bays wide. Bracket sets are placed not only on the columns but also between them, a style known as dapo.
• Ssanggye Seokmun inscription: The characters carved into the boulders at the temple entrance are attributed to Choe Chi-won. They are easy to miss on the way up, so watch the rock faces.
• Geumdang area: Above the main hall lies the Seon meditation area. A pagoda here is said to hold the skull of Huineng, the Sixth Patriarch of Chinese Chan Buddhism.

The walk to Buril Falls

The mountain area between Ssanggyesa and Buril Falls is protected as a national scenic site. Buril Falls, one of the "ten views of Jirisan", drops about 60 m. On the way you pass small hermitages such as Guksaam and Burilam, and Hwanhakdae, a rock where Choe Chi-won is said to have called down cranes. From Burilam there is a wide view of the Jirisan ridges.

Good to know

• The temple describes itself as a centre of Seon, doctrine and precepts, as well as tea and beompae. The Hwagae area around it is known for its large tea fields.
• Master Jingam is said to have composed beompae melodies while watching fish in the Seomjin River, and beompae is still taught here today.

Tripto tips

• When to go: In spring an approximately 6 km road lined with cherry trees leads to the temple. On blossom weekends the roads around Hwagae are badly congested, so set off early. Autumn foliage season is also lovely.
• Hours and fees: The temple is open 08:00–17:30 and admission is free. There is a car park. Allow about an hour for the temple alone, or close to half a day if you hike to Buril Falls.
• Watch out for: The trail to Buril Falls is a mountain path with steps and rocky sections, so wear proper shoes. Templestay programmes are available; check the official website if you want to stay overnight.
• Getting there: The address is 59 Ssanggyesa-gil, Hwagae-myeon, Hadong-gun. By public transport you need a bus from Hadong or Gurye towards Hwagae and then a connection, so check timetables in advance.